Tkpenalty's X1950~HD4k Clubhouse

[Craigleberry]

Cheers has anyone found that they have a less score in 3dmark after 8.1 ?

[Widjaja]

LOL!
Good luck in finding people who will admit they have scored lower.

I'll be trying out 8.1cat soon so I'll edit this post once I've done a run in 3DMark06.
I think I'll get lower marks.

[DOM]

Cheers has anyone found that they have a less score in 3dmark after 8.1 ?

i did like 50 some or more lol forgot :p thats from 7.9

[[I.R.A]_FBi]

x2 review here

http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=50373

[ShadowFold]

I got a 70 point boost with 8.1 :)

[imperialreign]

Cheers has anyone found that they have a less score in 3dmark after 8.1 ?

haven't even checked, yet - I broke the CPU fan (myself=dumbass=:slap:) at the back of my case and haven't been willing to run anything to intensive until I replace it.

BTW - cb, this last weekend was insane; I still intend to get to that sig in the near future.

[Craigleberry]

Thanks man I am in no hurry for it. I appreciate your help though. :)

[tkpenalty]

X2... looks interesting :D. Should be cheaper than two HD3870s?

[diileri]

Hello to all. :)
I just bought Sapphire X1950 pro (pci-e) and had problems (artifacting even with underclocking) with about every ati drivers I've tried, except Omega 3.8.442.
So, is this just a glitch with my card, or driver issue, since the reference drivers from ati/amd don't seem to work.
I've been reading this thread for a while, but I haven't had the time to read it completely (family takes it's "toll")...

Ah, the system specs...
cpu: E2160 @ 2.6GHz
mobo: ASRock 4CoreDual-SATA2
mem: 2GB DDR2-800 (1 dimm)
gpu: Sapphire Radeon X1950 Pro PCI-E
pwr: Enermax 350W
OS: WinXP SP2

[Widjaja]

Hello to all. :)
I just bought Sapphire X1950 pro (pci-e) and had problems (artifacting even with underclocking) with about every ati drivers I've tried, except Omega 3.8.442.
So, is this just a glitch with my card, or driver issue, since the reference drivers from ati/amd don't seem to work.
I've been reading this thread for a while, but I haven't had the time to read it completely (family takes it's "toll")...

Ah, the system specs...
cpu: E2160 @ 2.6GHz
mobo: ASRock 4CoreDual-SATA2
mem: 2GB DDR2-800 (1 dimm)
gpu: Sapphire Radeon X1950 Pro PCI-E
pwr: Enermax 350W
OS: WinXP SP2

pwr: Enermax 350W for sure.
According to AMD/ATi the power supply minimum is 450W with 30a on a single +12v rail PSU or 22a on a +12v dual rail PSU, but this recommendation is for a fully loaded system.

I'm using a 18a +12v dual rail PSU currently and haven't had any artifacting with the card.
I have used the card since April 07'.

I hope the lack in power didn't make your card artifact permanently.
Not to scare you, I heard storys of it happening.

[diileri]

I forgot to mention that we tested the card with my friend's rig (AMDX2 6400+, 2GB DDR2 800, 550W psu with 2 x 18A 12V lines (my psu has 17A 12V line)).
The problem was the same.
But curiously the omega driver's don't create any artifacts even when I oc the card (currently running stable 634MHz core and 1444MHz memory) and run 3dmark06 looping for 3 hours.
(currently running stable 634MHz core and 1444MHz memory).
Core temp stays below 65 degrees celcius.


I hope the lack in power didn't make your card artifact permanently.
Not to scare you, I heard storys of it happening.

This power is capable of delivering almost 430W RMS, even though it's specs say 350W..

[TonyStark]

Sigh... I'm in a rather irky mood atm so please dont be offended. But guys, refrain from those ridiculously short posts that are one word. Such as "fixed", there is absolutely no need to type something like that.

No.

[tkpenalty]

I forgot to mention that we tested the card with my friend's rig (AMDX2 6400+, 2GB DDR2 800, 550W psu with 2 x 18A 12V lines (my psu has 17A 12V line)).
The problem was the same.
But curiously the omega driver's don't create any artifacts even when I oc the card (currently running stable 634MHz core and 1444MHz memory) and run 3dmark06 looping for 3 hours.
(currently running stable 634MHz core and 1444MHz memory).
Core temp stays below 65 degrees celcius.



This power is capable of delivering almost 430W RMS, even though it's specs say 350W..

Your PSU is enough for it - a build like that would only eat 200W at most. Anyway being more relevant. Explain what drivers did you exctly use? Did you properly uninstall, reboot then reinstall the drivers? I'd RMA if after several attempts to get it working fail.

[diileri]

Your PSU is enough for it - a build like that would only eat 200W at most. Anyway being more relevant. Explain what drivers did you exctly use? Did you properly uninstall, reboot then reinstall the drivers? I'd RMA if after several attempts to get it working fail.

I thought so... Since I've seen ppl run even more power demanding rigs with similar PSU & same card without a glitch.

epilogue for me:
After all... it's funny how ppl blindly believe everything the card manufacturer says about the power requirements... I saw this one forum and they said that 29Amps for 12V line is not enough because ati recommends minimum of 30Amps.
If the card itself pulls less than 80Watts total in a rig that uses abt 250Watts, there is no way in hell the card needs 30Amps on 12V rail.
The power requirement assumed by ati is as staggering as 12V*30A= 360W. :D
In this one finnish forum (muropaketti.com), some ppl run E6600/2GB/X1950pro and similar rigs overclocked to the cpu's max capability with 350W/400W psu's which deliver 12 to 17A to the 12V rail.

[Craigleberry]

I thought so... Since I've seen ppl run even more power demanding rigs with similar PSU & same card without a glitch.

epilogue for me:
After all... it's funny how ppl blindly believe everything the card manufacturer says about the power requirements...

I would say that the card manufacture are just covering their bum's in saying about Power reqiurements. And also probly get a royalty for the Sli and Crossfire stamped psu's:p.

[tkpenalty]

Its also a method of generating money. Many stores say that a 430W NEO HE isnt enough for stuff like say, a single GTS 640 which is absolute rubbish, or even an X1950PRO. Well i dont get suckered so easily by that kind of advertising though.

[tkpenalty]

I hope the lack in power didn't make your card artifact permanently.
Not to scare you, I heard storys of it happening.

Artifacting? incorrect term, you mean damage.

[Craigleberry]

The only thing I make sure with PSU's is that I have more than enough and that I use a Good Brand and not some generic unstable piece os $hit.

[tkpenalty]

The only thing I make sure with PSU's is that I have more than enough and that I use a Good Brand and not some generic unstable piece os $hit.

My old PC is using that "piece of shit generic", that physically uses better components than my thermaltake 430W PSU. And weighing it in its a whole 500g more heavier in comparison. Oh yeah by the way, my old PC has been upgraded:

Old specs:

Processor: Pentium 4 Northwood A 3.2Ghz (Might be up for sale btw) 478
Memory: 2x1GB DDR400 Team Elite + Apacer
Motherboard: ASUS P4S800 SIS648FX
Video Card:GeCUBE 9800PRO Rev 1.0 (PR0wn3d more like :laugh:. Its dead if you didn't get the joke)
Hard Drives:Western Digital WD800 (80GB) IDE
Power Supply: 530W Generic WideTech PSU
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVD+RW IDE (Dead)
Chassis: Some Generic Tsumori AR series case that looked good in my eyes... ugly in your eyes.

New Specs:

Processor: Pentium Dual Core E2160 1.8Ghz
Memory: 2x1GB DDR667 -> 800 Kingston
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA P31 DS3L (Sorry couldn't resist :p)
Video Card: Powercolor X1950PRO EXTREME 256MB With Arctic Cooling AcceleroS1
Hard Drives: Western Digital WD800 (80GB) IDE)
Power Supply: 530W Generic WideTech PSU
Optical Drive: LG GSA H6N SATA 18x DVD+RW+DL
Chassis: Apex/ALLIED PC-132 (the old beigebox on my main PC before, remember?, god that case is nice for cable management >=D)

Basically a backup PC... that doesnt break my back. Might be my lan rig if I ever intend on going to lanpartys... Jesus the SOLO is far too heavy, (and thanks to the PSU choice and cooling choice). If I add another HDD and burner... *dies thinking about that*

I dont know why I got an 8800. The X1950PRO is more than enough for me :laugh: (nah I'm being serious). But I'm happy with my choices. Replaced the Celeron 4xx styled stock cooler with the E6300's cooler, god the Celeron 4xx cooler was scary, I was like "crap my CPU is going to fry", temps said otherwise, but... I didnt take chances. Gave the cooler's base a good rub with toothpaste, damn corrosion stuck to it.

[TonyStark]

I got a 70 point boost with 8.1 :)

A 0.005% boost in performance. Crazy man, i'm gonna update right away.

[diileri]

.005% boost :laugh:
Atleast a boost ;)

[thegave]

What does a power shortage look like? Artifacts or straight hang?

[Craigleberry]

Chassis: Some Generic Tsumori AR series case that looked good in my eyes... ugly in your eyes

How do you know? You do not look with my eyes. Re the Generic PSU You get what you pay for IMO. I wouldnt trust some 30 dollar crap PSU with a 1500 dollar PC not even for five minutes. :shadedshu

What does a power shortage look like? Artifacts or straight hang?
I used to have the agp x1950 and when i got it I had a 400W "generic" Unicase PSU. After installing the x1950 the pc wouldnt fire up. I installed a Thermaltake 470W and it worked good after that untill it died.

[Widjaja]

If I had TK's eyes then I'd be like shallow Hal.

Personally go with reputable branded PSU's myself, just keeps peace of mind.

[Craigleberry]

If I had TK's eyes then I'd be like shallow Hal.

Personally go with reputable branded PSU's myself, just keeps peace of mind.

:roll: Copy that.

[eidairaman1]

well i got the card in, so far so good, just couldnt load up Motocross Madness 2 on it, as the game wouldnt detect the card, it would only run in Software rendering, i noticed 3D selection in the game was ticked- which allows GPU selection- but it wouldnt come up when loaded game for first time, so after 3rd time launching i unticked it then left game and then i couldnt launch game and i decided to run DXDiag and i got 3 Fails with all DX Modes, so i believe drivers are still rough with AGP cards (Including Older) for newer drivers, after this one last install im going to try with Catalyst 7.6 and see what it does then.

I have Unified Remix 11.16 drivers in, latest Catalyst 8.1 and Latest DX9C (2007) NOV,

[tkpenalty]

well i got the card in, so far so good, just couldnt load up Motocross Madness 2 on it, as the game wouldnt detect the card, it would only run in Software rendering, i noticed 3D selection in the game was ticked- which allows GPU selection- but it wouldnt come up when loaded game for first time, so after 3rd time launching i unticked it then left game and then i couldnt launch game and i decided to run DXDiag and i got 3 Fails with all DX Modes, so i believe drivers are still rough with AGP cards (Including Older) for newer drivers, after this one last install im going to try with Catalyst 7.6 and see what it does then.

I have Unified Remix 11.16 drivers in, latest Catalyst 8.1 and Latest DX9C (2007) NOV,

You have to stick with 7.6 Drivers, so far AMD hasn't been able to fix the driver issue with AGP GPUs. There is no way you can use any driver set higher than 7.6. 7.6 In my opinion is one of the best drivers, very stable imho. If only AMD fixed this up >_>

[eidairaman1]

well afaik the 7.12s dont cause the Reads/Writes and AGP Mode to change in CCC, 8.1s aswell
i just believe they maybe dropping DX7 support from the drivers.

[tkpenalty]

I'd Keep with previous drivers that work.

[Craigleberry]

Or try Omega drivers I have heard they work well with X1950 AGP

[Widjaja]

well i got the card in, so far so good, just couldnt load up Motocross Madness 2 on it, as the game wouldnt detect the card, it would only run in Software rendering, i noticed 3D selection in the game was ticked- which allows GPU selection- but it wouldnt come up when loaded game for first time, so after 3rd time launching i unticked it then left game and then i couldnt launch game and i decided to run DXDiag and i got 3 Fails with all DX Modes, so i believe drivers are still rough with AGP cards (Including Older) for newer drivers, after this one last install im going to try with Catalyst 7.6 and see what it does then.

I have Unified Remix 11.16 drivers in, latest Catalyst 8.1 and Latest DX9C (2007) NOV,


Is this with the HIS or the Sapphire X1950pro?

Well it's obviously a driver issue with the HIS but there shouldn't be any issues with the Sapphire, if so I think it would be hardware related.
I've been lazy and haven't installed 8.1cat yet but my Sapphire has been working since 7.1-7.12 I only missed out 7.7 and 7.8 I think.

[tkpenalty]

Okay correction, 7.11 and 7.12 work with the X1950PRO AGPs. Eidairaman probably got a Sapphire, 8.1s may have some problem. I highly doubt AMD would drop DX7 support as many still-popular titles such as Counterstrike 1.6 run on DX7 (or less).

[tkpenalty]

X1950PRO In its new habitat:
http://img.techpowerup.org/080128/Image041.jpg
8800GT In my main Rig:
http://img.techpowerup.org/080128/Image032.jpg

Notice how both systems use a P31 board and use the AcceleroS1 and are wired in a similar manner :).

[Craigleberry]

Also see the Thermalright has a GIGABYTE sticker on it :p

[eidairaman1]

Okay correction, 7.11 and 7.12 work with the X1950PRO AGPs. Eidairaman probably got a Sapphire, 8.1s may have some problem. I highly doubt AMD would drop DX7 support as many still-popular titles such as Counterstrike 1.6 run on DX7 (or less).

Well i think i will stick with the 7.6, but AMD seriously needs to state in their drivers that they are for AGP Cards aswell (Ones that work!) Also i do have a 1950 Pro and the card is stable hardware wise, i just cant get software working worth a Damn. But ya im going to go with Vanilla Nvidia Drivers except the IDE which apparently 5.10s have a problem. Install Cat 7.6 and should i try the Latest Beta Drivers for the Xfi Sound card?

[thegave]

Cat 7.12-based Omegas working fine for me, I think (Sapphire 1950Pro 512mb AGP)

As regarding power-supply, I'm using a Dell 250W which I hear are good quality things, and the thing boots and runs things fine, but when I have a game open and minimised and I'm running artifact scan the thing hangs. I'm guessing this is probably most likely just because I'm trying to OC it too much? Works fine in games with those clocks though.. =/ And no artifacts before the crash. Usually takes a few minutes to crash

[eidairaman1]

the 1950 Pro was never an overclocker, how sapphire managed to get the clocks it has vs Reference is beyond me.

[ShadowFold]

the 1950 Pro was never an overclocker, how sapphire managed to get the clocks it has vs Reference is beyond me.

BIOS mods and voltage uppage probly

[thegave]

what's the best waterblock for a 1950pro?

i know EK makes full ones that cover the ram sinks as well, are there any others? what's the diff between the EK FCX1900 and the EK FCX1900 Acetal CF?

I would assume the CF stands for CrossFire, but if you have a look at
http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=116
versus
http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_31_42&products_id=136

hmm.

[tkpenalty]

what's the best waterblock for a 1950pro?

i know EK makes full ones that cover the ram sinks as well, are there any others? what's the diff between the EK FCX1900 and the EK FCX1900 Acetal CF?

I would assume the CF stands for CrossFire, but if you have a look at
http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=116
versus
http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_31_42&products_id=136

hmm.

Hmm... watercooling? Is the rest of your system watercooled? I'd instead look at using this cash to upgrade the rest of the system. If you are keen on cooling, I'd instead grab high end air cooling instead. My opinion is that the AcceleroX2 is enough-even with water cooling you wont be able to get more out of that X1950PRO.

[eidairaman1]

Hmm... watercooling? Is the rest of your system watercooled? I'd instead look at using this cash to upgrade the rest of the system. If you are keen on cooling, I'd instead grab high end air cooling instead. My opinion is that the AcceleroX2 is enough-even with water cooling you wont be able to get more out of that X1950PRO.

ya youd have to increase voltage higher to get better yields but the card was originally designed as a high performance low power model. AMD turned around with 3850 and 3870.

[thegave]

There's not much more I can upgrade on this pos. I have 4x 512mb so that's taken up all the slots. i don't really want to get raptors because i don't think they'll help that much. what does that leave me with, cpu? look for a 3.4ghz EE?

[Wile E]

There's not much more I can upgrade on this pos. I have 4x 512mb so that's taken up all the slots. i don't really want to get raptors because i don't think they'll help that much. what does that leave me with, cpu? look for a 3.4ghz EE?

Save your pennies, and do a full rebuild. Mobo, ram, cpu all at once. You can get a decent combo for around $250, if you reuse all your other stuff.

[ChillyMyst]

There's not much more I can upgrade on this pos. I have 4x 512mb so that's taken up all the slots. i don't really want to get raptors because i don't think they'll help that much. what does that leave me with, cpu? look for a 3.4ghz EE?

cheap upgrade option

biostar ta770 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138102) 82bucks at the egg
A-Data extream 2gb ddr2 800 cas4 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211174)overclocks to 1066+ with ease.
4000+ x2 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103774) 60bucks at the egg (will do 2.85 or higher easly, totaly killing that p4.

that added up via the egg cart=194bucks!!! damn good price if u ask me

2 other things i would add
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817101021
epower 550watt 20+20amp 12v rail psu with EPS12v support(8pin CPU power for newer boards, but still works in onder ones) will run you 50bucks.

http://www.jab-tech.com/Thermalright-Ultra-90-K8-pr-3348.html
thermalright ultra90 cpu cooler go with the h1 fan it has higher airflow(free with cooler) its 20bucks(19 acctualy but hey)


i know, alot of you now hate amd, but this setups cheap and can support phenom/k10 overclocking properly when/if somebody desides to grab a k10 later!!!!

[eidairaman1]

There's not much more I can upgrade on this pos. I have 4x 512mb so that's taken up all the slots. i don't really want to get raptors because i don't think they'll help that much. what does that leave me with, cpu? look for a 3.4ghz EE?

the Raptors are just overglorified HDs, your better off with a SCSI system for max performance

[Wile E]

the Raptors are just overglorified HDs, your better off with a SCSI system for max performance
That's much more expensive than buying Raptors.

[ChillyMyst]

WileE, its more expencive but true, and i agree raptors arent that great, they have good access time but dont transfer data any faster, personaly i have owned raptors and compared them with normal drives and the only things the raptors really showed me over the normal drives in every day use was that they could run alot hotter even with a fan blowing dirrectly on them.......

[Wile E]

WileE, its more expencive but true, and i agree raptors arent that great, they have good access time but dont transfer data any faster, personaly i have owned raptors and compared them with normal drives and the only things the raptors really showed me over the normal drives in every day use was that they could run alot hotter even with a fan blowing dirrectly on them.......It all depends on what you're doing, really. Raptors have their place. If you are frequently accessing large, contiguous files, a high density perpindicular drive or 2 will likely serve you better for the same price., But if you are continually accessing many, very small files at any given moment, the Raptor will serve you better.

Take note that I have a 2x320GB 7200.10 Seagate RAID0 array, but I don't down the Raptors, because they do have their place.

[imperialreign]

ya youd have to increase voltage higher to get better yields but the card was originally designed as a high performance low power model. AMD turned around with 3850 and 3870.

best of my understanding on the 1950 PROs, also, is that vmodding doesn't always actually do anything :confused: My style PCB is like that (uses capacitors and coils in place of the VRMs). Some are over-volt locked too.

Besides, even cranking the clocks up a ton doesn't really seem to net a major performance boost. This card seems to run it's best around 610/730.


Take note that I have a 2x320GB 7200.10 Seagate RAID0 array, but I don't down the Raptors, because they do have their place.

I've always considered Raptors to be the HDDs of the hardcore gamers. WD never really targeted that audience, though.

[ChillyMyst]

i seen raptors more for people who what their epeen enlarged or for use in servers that have alot of traffic.

if u want the fastist drives u can get seagate has some 15000 rpm drives that have been around for years, and are still fastist you can buy, warrning,they get very warm tho :P

[Wile E]

i seen raptors more for people who what their epeen enlarged or for use in servers that have alot of traffic.

if u want the fastist drives u can get seagate has some 15000 rpm drives that have been around for years, and are still fastist you can buy, warrning,they get very warm tho :P
Cheetahs. But they're SCSI, and you need to buy a good controller to see the true benefit from them. Tack on another $250+ for that, depending on the options you choose.

[eidairaman1]

Yup considering their warranty is the worst out of the major players, If i had option between a WD and Samsung Drive, id take the Samsung over the WD- Despite performance- its the warranty that counts the most on mechanical parts like HDs. Ive seen Drives not even last a few days ya know
best of my understanding on the 1950 PROs, also, is that vmodding doesn't always actually do anything :confused: My style PCB is like that (uses capacitors and coils in place of the VRMs). Some are over-volt locked too.

Besides, even cranking the clocks up a ton doesn't really seem to net a major performance boost. This card seems to run it's best around 610/730.




I've always considered Raptors to be the HDDs of the hardcore gamers. WD never really targeted that audience, though.

[tkpenalty]

Yup considering their warranty is the worst out of the major players, If i had option between a WD and Samsung Drive, id take the Samsung over the WD- Despite performance- its the warranty that counts the most on mechanical parts like HDs. Ive seen Drives not even last a few days ya know

What? It is possible to get an RMA for WD HDD. As Wile E argued, the Raptors are for PERFORMANCE. NOT, for budget, thus why there is a point of purchasing them. However with samsung, they are aimed at lower cost consumers... I wouldn't mind getting a samsung at all as they are good drives overall. Yes on the frontier of performance they slightly suffer, but its a negligable difference overall.

Tkpenalty's Secondary [2008] (http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/1323.html)
http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/1323/__3.jpg

Please Enjoy.

Better images of the X1950PRO in its new habitat, note i had to install those copper heatsinks on the rear of the card. I found out that the VRMs were running WAY too hot... thus why lowering airflow to them usually ended in the GPU crashing/blank screening. I wonder if I should try to push that E2160

[thegave]

Even if the 1950s are over-volt locked a hardware voltmod should work right?

think I'll give the pencil mod another go since bios overvolting doesn't seem to have changed anything.

I'm reluctant to upgrade because I'd feel very bad about letting go of my Corsair, bearing in mind I paid like almost $400 for them way back in the day and never really had a chance to use them. Don't need a new PSU, the StealthXStream should be able to handle more or less anything...

Have to put water-cooling on hold now because I got gyped with my motherboard... God damnit. If I can't find a replacement i875p I might just go down the full upgrade route.

[imperialreign]

Even if the 1950s are over-volt locked a hardware voltmod should work right?

think I'll give the pencil mod another go since bios overvolting doesn't seem to have changed anything.

I'm reluctant to upgrade because I'd feel very bad about letting go of my Corsair, bearing in mind I paid like almost $400 for them way back in the day and never really had a chance to use them. Don't need a new PSU, the StealthXStream should be able to handle more or less anything...

Have to put water-cooling on hold now because I got gyped with my motherboard... God damnit. If I can't find a replacement i875p I might just go down the full upgrade route.

well, that's what I was getting at earlier - even if you defeat an over-volt lock (if the card has one) so that you can go about a hardware vmod, it won't necessarily work, either.

It's worth a shot, though, but keep in mind that the 1950s will go thermonuclear with a vmod - make sure you've got an adequate cooling solution for the card.

i seen raptors more for people who what their epeen enlarged or for use in servers that have alot of traffic.

if u want the fastist drives u can get seagate has some 15000 rpm drives that have been around for years, and are still fastist you can buy, warrning,they get very warm tho :P

meh . . . due to the low storage capacity of a Raptor HDD, you'll never see it in server use.

IIRC, most server HDDs are SCSI - and those types from any manufacturer are not cheap.

Anyhow, I've been more than happy with my 7200 WD drives - personally, I prefer the Seagate Barracuda's, but when the wallet is tight, I'll go with WD.

[thegave]

<3seagate

what's the stuff you use for pencil modding called? the stuff you use for car window defoggers?

[tkpenalty]

Even if the 1950s are over-volt locked a hardware voltmod should work right?

think I'll give the pencil mod another go since bios overvolting doesn't seem to have changed anything.

I'm reluctant to upgrade because I'd feel very bad about letting go of my Corsair, bearing in mind I paid like almost $400 for them way back in the day and never really had a chance to use them. Don't need a new PSU, the StealthXStream should be able to handle more or less anything...

Have to put water-cooling on hold now because I got gyped with my motherboard... God damnit. If I can't find a replacement i875p I might just go down the full upgrade route.

We meant change stuff like CPU, mobo, RAM, GPU, and thats it. Why would you need to upgrade the PSU? :confused:

[ShadowFold]

"Better images of the X1950PRO in its new habitat"

Its like watching wild kingdom :p

[thegave]

Someone suggested I buy some new PSU.. =/

um. Don't really want to spend money upgrading. So trying to squeeze everything out of the videocard. And I guess it doesn't make sense to go water. So. yeeah. A(nother) new mobo and I think I'll stop there...

[tkpenalty]

Someone suggested I buy some new PSU.. =/

um. Don't really want to spend money upgrading. So trying to squeeze everything out of the videocard. And I guess it doesn't make sense to go water. So. yeeah. A(nother) new mobo and I think I'll stop there...

New mobo new RAM new CPU new GPU.

Something like this:

E6750
2x1GB DDR800 (even generic will do)
GA P35 DS3
ASUS HD3850 512MB (with Company of heroes and non-reference cooler).

The performance given by those parts would burn your current setup.

[Dangle]

TKPenalty, don't you think you might as well just change the name to the ATI clubhouse?

[tkpenalty]

TKPenalty, don't you think you might as well just change the name to the ATI clubhouse?

This is probably the 10th time someone asked, no. Why can't I call it an ATi Clubhouse? Because I only support X1k~HD3k GPUs. I plan to discontinue support to the X1k~X1800 Series GPUs as nobody cares about them.

New title will be X1950~HD3K Clubhouse

[Wile E]

<3seagate

what's the stuff you use for pencil modding called? the stuff you use for car window defoggers?No, you literally use a pencil.

[tkpenalty]

err wtf is X1950k..................... sorry but may you please change it to X1950....

[Wile E]

err wtf is X1950k..................... sorry but may you please change it to X1950....

Ummmm, what?

[thegave]

Read somewhere on a forum that using conductive pen is better. Plus it's really hard to get the graphite in the right pace without having it between resistors

[Wile E]

Read somewhere on a forum that using conductive pen is better. Plus it's really hard to get the graphite in the right pace without having it between resistorsConductive pen is not better for penciling a resistor. That's what this entails.

You're thinking of painting traces on the board, to complete a different circut. You don't do that with this particular mod.

[thegave]

http://www.vr-zone.com/articles/PowerColor_X1950PRO_256MB_With_Arctic_Cooling/4190-7.html

kind of hard to pencil across when they're so close together... =(

[ChillyMyst]

not really, i have used pencil mods plenty of times on diffrent products, tip, you dont use a normal wooden pencil, get a .7mm machanical job and proper led and your set, you can even get led with diffrent resistance levels if you take a DMM with you, I once had 5 diffrent leds that each had diffrent levels of resistance, you will injoy the weird looks u will get at an art shop/craft store from ppl who see you using a DMM on pencil led :D

[Urbklr]

http://img.techpowerup.org/080201/rainbow_conception_missouri_1_crop560.jpg
http://img.techpowerup.org/080201/rainbow-docks507.jpg
http://img.techpowerup.org/080201/Rainbow-over-bluffs-large.jpg
http://img.techpowerup.org/080201/RainbowOverPotalaPalacePicture650.jpg
http://img.techpowerup.org/080201/rainbow-over-the-muldrow-glacier_1127.jpg
http://img.techpowerup.org/080201/WindowStickersRainbow.jpg

[3991vhtes]

The rainbowiest of them all!!!!!




http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc224/x3991/trippy.jpg

[Dangle]

This is probably the 10th time someone asked, no. Why can't I call it an ATi Clubhouse? Because I only support X1k~HD3k GPUs. I plan to discontinue support to the X1k~X1800 Series GPUs as nobody cares about them.

New title will be X1950~HD3K ClubhouseThanks! understood! I like how you keep up with teh times! WOOT!


Btw, can you add me to your front page for user?
Stock Asus 2900XT
No OC... yet.

[imperialreign]

^previous posts past Dangle . . .


:shadedshu :slap:

In light of what is 'ere to come - Ima gonna steer clear of this thread for the next page or two

[tkpenalty]

Spammers, please I want you to die.

No I dont. But Please end this nonsense.............

[3991vhtes]

Wanting people to die becuse they crapped your thread?

ok i see you edited it, it sounds much less offensive

[tkpenalty]

eh...that's pathetic.Wanting people to die becuse they crapped your thread? :laugh:

y?

Cause I'm possibly mentally unstable from other things that happened outside of the forum? Stop provoking me. You guys are FAR from being near the word useful for what you have done to three threads. You guys get in the bloody way of serious discussion, I seriously look down on you now. You guys have ganged up, trying to hijack the thread and possibly get it locked. I dont think moderators will take this lightly. When I saw it in the 8 Series clubhouse I thought it was just a short joke, but all three of the clubhouses?

[3991vhtes]

Still, that's no excuse. Death should only be put upon people who kill there daughters for breaking an xbox, not a thread crapper :)

We did it, because it's freaking hilarious :laugh:

[tkpenalty]

Still, that's no excuse. Death should only be put upon people who kill there daughters for breaking an xbox, not a thread crapper :)

*SIGH* Do you not get the point? You do not have the right to spam here. This seems to be some baiting attempt, and "forum gang up".

Why isnt Ubrklr911 responding? Same person?

EDIT: On a sidenote the mods are here.

[3991vhtes]

Urbklr911 is offline...want the part of the MSN conversation?

[3991vhtes]

EDIT: On a sidenote the mods are here.

rly?

[tkpenalty]

rly?

Yes. 2 Members online, only my name shows up. Which means one Moderator who is in invisible mode is here.

[ChillyMyst]

Cause I'm possibly mentally unstable....

that explains alot........

and oh noez, we should all run in fear, a mod is in the house and TKP is crying to them because his clubhouse has some "spam" in it.

oh i also have one of these cards, a bios moded x1900xt at toxic speeds with fan set at 100% all the time, but no i dont want to join your club, because you come off as a real mental case/twonk.......

[Darknova]

Rainbows are cool....

Calm down TKP. It's a forum, stop getting so damn stressed because of it, and if you are having problems "outside of the forum" DON'T take it out on us.

[ChillyMyst]

Rainbows are cool....

Calm down TKP. It's a forum, stop getting so damn stressed because of it, and if you are having problems "outside of the forum" DON'T take it out on us.

yeah maby go take a break, have some tea and a biscut, just make it caffien free, your already high strung/twitchy enought without more help!!!

[diileri]

Anyone know which software to use in vista 64bit to overclock x1950pro pcie?
Atitool doesn't work at all if I use driver level overclocking (doesn't change speeds at all), and ati tray tools doesn't have a working low level driver :(
Suggestions other than ccc :P ?

[peach1971]

My favorite is ATi Tray Tools! :toast:
I´m using it in auto 2D/3D OC mode (GPU running @459 energy saving MHz in 2D).

http://www.guru3d.com/article/atitraytools/189/

[tkpenalty]

Rainbows are cool....

Calm down TKP. It's a forum, stop getting so damn stressed because of it, and if you are having problems "outside of the forum" DON'T take it out on us.

I'm okay now, but i hear this phrase far too often :laugh:.

Anyone know which software to use in vista 64bit to overclock x1950pro pcie?
Atitool doesn't work at all if I use driver level overclocking (doesn't change speeds at all), and ati tray tools doesn't have a working low level driver :(
Suggestions other than ccc :P ?

ATi Tray Tools maybe? As suggested earlier. I myself find some problems with ATi tool usually. At most i use it for stability testing. On the 8800 and X1950. ATi Tray Tools seems to be more reliable for me, but it really depends on your setup. X1950PROs really need ATi Tray tools.
One problem you'll face with the X1950PRO is the fact that you wont be able to juice more performance out of it-regardless of OC.

[Urbklr]

Im online now:D....I have yet to hear from a mod....:p

GO RAINBOW'S:D:D:D

[ChillyMyst]

cant riva tuner work on x1950 cards? never tryed it but i think it should work, if not try powerstrip :)

[3991vhtes]

Yes. 2 Members online, only my name shows up. Which means one Moderator who is in invisible mode is here.

That was me :roll:

[diileri]

... and ati tray tools doesn't have a working low level driver :(
Suggestions other than ccc :P ?

As i mentioned. ati tray tools won't do for me as I use Vista64. ATT doesn't have what you call a "digitally signed driver". So it doesn't even start :(

And I can get little bit more "juice" from this card in XP via OC ;)

[Craigleberry]

What the hell has been going on in here for the last two pages?? You forgot one thing THERE IS A POT AT THE END OF THE RAINBOW.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd145/Craigleberry/pot1.gif
:)

[ChillyMyst]

What the hell has been going on in here for the last two pages?? You forgot one thing THERE IS A POT AT THE END OF THE RAINBOW.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd145/Craigleberry/pot1.gif
:)

knowing these forums i think u got the wrong kinda Pot ;)

http://www.pot.com/images/monster-screen.jpg

just an example, im to lazy to find a leaf :P

[panchoman]

typo in the title.. x1950K.. its either gotta be x1k or x1950 lol..

[tkpenalty]

typo in the title.. x1950K.. its either gotta be x1k or x1950 lol..

Yeah I know.... its supposed to be X1950...

[Wile E]

As i mentioned. ati tray tools won't do for me as I use Vista64. ATT doesn't have what you call a "digitally signed driver". So it doesn't even start :(

And I can get little bit more "juice" from this card in XP via OC ;)Hit F8 during boot-up, like you were gonna boot in safe mode, but select Disable Driver Signing (or similar, don't remember the exact name), and it should work. Unfortunately, you have to do this every time you want to use ATI Tool.

Also, you can give RivaTuner a try, but there's no voltage control.

[diileri]

..Also, you can give RivaTuner a try, but there's no voltage control.

I haven't found the voltage control in ATT at all :(...

[SpookyWillow]

Hit F8 during boot-up, like you were gonna boot in safe mode, but select Disable Driver Signing (or similar, don't remember the exact name), and it should work. Unfortunately, you have to do this every time you want to use ATI Tool.

Also, you can give RivaTuner a try, but there's no voltage control.

im sure theres a more permanent way of disabling it, my brother uses vista and he also uses ATT to control his cards fan.

[thegave]

When I start ATT it asks me if I want to disable ATi Hotkey Poller, which needs to be deactivated for Low Level Driver overclocking to work, but enabled for OverDrive.

[tkpenalty]

When I start ATT it asks me if I want to disable ATi Hotkey Poller, which needs to be deactivated for Low Level Driver overclocking to work, but enabled for OverDrive.

The hotkey poller is a function that is rarely ever used. Its one function that I find rather useless, and impractical. However your opinion may differ. Anyway, if you don't need to use hotkeys then there is no need to enable it. I disable it through msconfig as it chews on your memory usage (Not that it really matters).

[ChillyMyst]

The hotkey poller is a function that is rarely ever used. Its one function that I find rather useless, and impractical. However your opinion may differ. Anyway, if you don't need to use hotkeys then there is no need to enable it. I disable it through msconfig as it chews on your memory usage (Not that it really matters).

um, no, its how the cards change clocks from 2d to 3d, check your facts, with it dissable the card will not auto switch to 3d clocks, you will be forced to run atitool every time u want to game using 3d clocks.

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=199274

GPU and MEM only running at 2D clock speeds since ATT installation.

Ouestions and complains about cards running only 2D clockspeeds since ATT installation come up over and over again. Most times it is 100% PEBKAC and I understand, because i'm also used to click away anything pooping up under windows as fast as possible and to make heavy use of checkboxes, that keep ugly popups away in the future. So I did with the first screen ATT ever showed me and then I went to several forums and asked for help. (Not that I used the search function on the forums. My problems are always unique and people are interested to hear about them.)

ATI Hotkey Poller

ATI uses the "ATI Hotkey Poller" service, to change clockspeeds on their modern graphic cards. The Service runs in the background and detects whenever a 3D application is started and then swithes the GPU and MEM to the higher clock rates as supposed within the cards BIOS. The "ATI Hotkey Poller" comes with the ATI Catalyst driver and doesn't need CCC to be installed.

If ATT detect the background service running, so usually at least the fist time you run ATT, the following window pops up:

Quote:The "ATI HotKey Poller" is currently running. If you want to make use of ATI Tray Tools' low-level overclocking this service needs to be deactivated, while it must be present in background to use ATI Overdrive 3 overclocking. Do you want to disable the "ATI HotKey Poller" now?

[] Don't ask me again and do so every time ATI Tray Tools start.

Now choose "Yes" to disable the "ATI Hotkey Poller" or "No" to keep it running in the background.
This decision deeply affects ATT's functionality (especially overclocking abilitys) as well as the behavior of your graphics card:

1) You choose "Yes" and set the checkbox to automaticaly disable "ATI Hotkey Poller" with further ATT starts. Since ATT by default autostart on Windows startup, simply rebooting won't bring the sevice back.
Without "ATI Hotkey Poller" doing its job, you have to manually take care about clock speeds and apply changes by hand or make use of profiles to set particular speeds for particular applications. Benefit is that with this configuration you can make use of any manual low level overclocking settings ATT provide. Note that ATI Overdrive function will not work without "ATI Hotkey Poller"
2) You choose "No" and set the checkbox to leave "ATI Hotkey Poller" alone whenever ATT start.
Whenever you start up a 3D application, "ATI Hotkey Poller" will set your graphic card to the 3D clockspeeds and voltages as set in the cards BIOS or within ATTs "ATI Overdrive" settings. ATTs low level overclocking options won't be working with "ATI Hotkey Poller" running. Note that ATI uses slightly relaxed memory timings for Overdrive.
3) You choose "Yes" or "No" and leave the checkbox regarding further starts unset.
On any further ATT start you will be asked again. One day you want to overclock your card like mad using low level overclocking functions? The other day you want to give your card a little break and deceide to keep it running at factory settings or just using Overdrive? You love working with profiles today and hate them tomorrow? No problem, decision on demand.

i just love how some people think they know what they are doing then give others advice that acctualy hampers the persons performance or system reliability.....

if you dissable this like he says you must MANUALY clock your card up to 3d clocks EVERY TIME you want to run a game and get 3d performance out of your card......... :shadedshu:shadedshu:shadedshu:nutkick::nutkick::n utkick:

[diileri]

Well... I think I'm changing to vista x86 or even back to XP, since I really don't want to spend no more time to find a way to circumvent the fact that ATT doesn't run easily on vista64.
As I mentioned in the first place, ATT doesn't even start under vista64 because the driver cannot be loaded and started properly.
*sigh*

[thegave]

Hah thanks for the warning Chilly. I never check the box to permanently disable because I don't like making things permanent, a bit of a commitmophobe.

Anyway I was rereading the first post again and noticed not one, but two disturbing things:

1. The X1950PRO and GT are GPUs that need voltage increases to be able to be overclocked, just to obtain a 50mhz overclock on the core and have it run without artifacts needs the voltage to be increased, however problems arise here as no program at the moment supports voltage increasing. This can only be done by flashing the bios itself, go to Ketxxx’s bios thread to obtain bioses (a database of his bioses will be uploaded soon). ATIFlash is the only program that supports flashing of the RV570, other programs will not detect the RV570 as an adapter.

I used ATI WINFLASH to flash my X1950 and it worked fine. I think.

But more importantly,
2. I haven't been added to the current members list.. =(

Just again to remind you:

Sapphire X1950Pro 512mb AGP
Working
Current OC 661/823
AC X2

[ChillyMyst]

Well... I think I'm changing to vista x86 or even back to XP, since I really don't want to spend no more time to find a way to circumvent the fact that ATT doesn't run easily on vista64.
As I mentioned in the first place, ATT doesn't even start under vista64 because the driver cannot be loaded and started properly.
*sigh*

search the forums, theres a way to perm dissable the stupid UAC block of unsigned drivers on x64 vista, but personaly i would just install xp64 and not bother with vista, to many damn buggs!!!!

[diileri]

Well... I decided to go with vista x86 :)
No problems so far. All the software I need are working like charm. Thanks to all who committed their time for my li'l problem :)

[diileri]

04:48 local time:
Holy sh--t! I hope I didn't kill my radeon...
1. I backed up the original VGA bios :)
2. I started to flash the card's bios and it all went to hell :(
Screen corrupted as soon as I started the flashing... No response to keyboard or mouse, so I unwillingly pressed reset button.
During boot: blank screen and *beep beep beep* :(

Can I force flash bios in dos or windows?
I can use PCI or AGP card simultaneously with my pcie x1950pro...

btw, can't get winflash to start at all :(

07:49 local time, the story so far:
Panic is not for me...
I managed to boot up my system using _old_ agp card (Nvidia Riva TNT2 M64) and started to search the internet for answers.
Since I didn't find any conclusive answers, I thought that it doesn't hurt to try flashing in dos.
So I searched the internet for guides how to make my USB memory stick bootable, with little hope.
I didn't find any boot images that don't need floppy, so I started to edit my Hiren's boot CD image with power iso.
So I managed to "slipstream" the Atiflash executable and my backup vga rom-image to the cd bootable and booted the system.
Praise the creator, it worked. I ran the flash utility, checked the info it gave. OK. I checked if it recognizes my x1950, it did! Woohoo!
Then I flashed my backup rom to the card's eeprom (it took about a nanosecond, it's like _really_ fast), turned off my comp and took out the agp card.
With my toes and fingers crossed, I turned the PSU switch to on position (usually my system boots after AC-loss) and nothing happened. WTF?
So I pressed the power button... couple of beeps as usual... waiting, and then my monitor's power led turned from amber to green! IT WORKS!
It still works ;)

08:00 local time:
The lesson to learn from this is: Never ever (and I do mean never) use bios flash programs running under windows to "upgrade" your VGA-card! (I know I won't ;) )

[tkpenalty]

um, no, its how the cards change clocks from 2d to 3d, check your facts, with it dissable the card will not auto switch to 3d clocks, you will be forced to run atitool every time u want to game using 3d clocks.

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=199274



i just love how some people think they know what they are doing then give others advice that acctualy hampers the persons performance or system reliability.....

if you dissable this like he says you must MANUALY clock your card up to 3d clocks EVERY TIME you want to run a game and get 3d performance out of your card......... :shadedshu:shadedshu:shadedshu:nutkick::nutkick::n utkick:

Sorry my bad >_<....

We all make mistakes. Thanks for correcting me, change your atitude however...

04:48 local time:
Holy sh--t! I hope I didn't kill my radeon...
1. I backed up the original VGA bios :)
2. I started to flash the card's bios and it all went to hell :(
Screen corrupted as soon as I started the flashing... No response to keyboard or mouse, so I unwillingly pressed reset button.
During boot: blank screen and *beep beep beep* :(

Can I force flash bios in dos or windows?
I can use PCI or AGP card simultaneously with my pcie x1950pro...

btw, can't get winflash to start at all :(

07:49 local time, the story so far:
Panic is not for me...
I managed to boot up my system using _old_ agp card (Nvidia Riva TNT2 M64) and started to search the internet for answers.
Since I didn't find any conclusive answers, I thought that it doesn't hurt to try flashing in dos.
So I searched the internet for guides how to make my USB memory stick bootable, with little hope.
I didn't find any boot images that don't need floppy, so I started to edit my Hiren's boot CD image with power iso.
So I managed to "slipstream" the Atiflash executable and my backup vga rom-image to the cd bootable and booted the system.
Praise the creator, it worked. I ran the flash utility, checked the info it gave. OK. I checked if it recognizes my x1950, it did! Woohoo!
Then I flashed my backup rom to the card's eeprom (it took about a nanosecond, it's like _really_ fast), turned off my comp and took out the agp card.
With my toes and fingers crossed, I turned the PSU switch to on position (usually my system boots after AC-loss) and nothing happened. WTF?
So I pressed the power button... couple of beeps as usual... waiting, and then my monitor's power led turned from amber to green! IT WORKS!
It still works ;)

08:00 local time:
The lesson to learn from this is: Never ever (and I do mean never) use bios flash programs running under windows to "upgrade" your VGA-card! (I know I won't ;) )

Good luck on flashing it once again!

[ChillyMyst]

upgraded many a x800pro vivo to xt pe with winflash, never had a problem......but then again i also keep a boot disk around for blind flashing of cards that error :P

[thegave]

Winflashed my X1950Pro because I'm a lazy sod.

Hey out of curiosity, should the BIOS vmod be disabled before a physical vmod is done? Is there any kind of interaction or does it not matter since the BIOS vmod isn't being recognised anyway?

[tigger]

personally,i think if you do a hard vmod,its better to use a normal bios.

[eidairaman1]

well im back to full strength, Installed NF 5.10 with 11.16 IDE, Installed Catalyst 7.6, all is well now, Just wish ATI would let us know when they release AGP drivers, or better yet have the 3rd parties release their own to make the products unique from one another.

[ChillyMyst]

god no, i dont want to see each card maker put out their own moded drivers, i remmber those days, they sucked.

you must be to young to remmber when 20 companys using the same chips all used their own driver versions......god that was a pain.....

as to agp, depends on the system, my buddy said the 8's are working with his agp cards, the 8's work with this x1300 agp i have in my mothers system(use it to play movies and for her to do work on :) )

try the omega's he has an agp mode for the newer drivers that use a mix of old and new files, his latist drivers are still the 7.12's tho, but they do work with the agp cards!!!!!

[peach1971]

if you dissable this like he says you must MANUALY clock your card up to 3d clocks EVERY TIME you want to run a game and get 3d performance out of your card

Nope.
Just use Auto Overclocking in ATi Tray Tools. :)
I have permanently disabled the ATi Hotkey Poller and ATT does it auto 2D/3D OC job very well! :D

2D: 284 MHz http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/vexp7/

3D: Automatically switching to 621 MHz while Hotkey Poller is NOT running.
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/4183/snap7245gl6.jpg

There is ABSOLUTELY no use for ATi Hotkey Poller when you´re going with ATi Tray Tools.

[thegave]

My ATT doesn't Auto-load with Windows anyway. Hate Auto-loading programs, even if I run them as soon as Windows has fully loaded.

Tigger: By normal bios do you mean normal vcore, or normal everything (including clocks)?

[peach1971]

My ATT doesn't Auto-load with Windows anyway. Hate Auto-loading programs, even if I run them as soon as Windows has fully loaded.
CPU usage: 0%
RAM: 932 KB

Rocket-fast load and doesn´t suck performance, instead saves energy when you´re surfing on TPU! :toast:

[thegave]

It's good clicking practice.

[eidairaman1]

Well i have no clue as to why the 3D core was being dumped (DX 9C, and Games not loading)
So i went back to what works, maybe after i get some good backup software i will try a newer driver.

god no, i dont want to see each card maker put out their own moded drivers, i remmber those days, they sucked.

you must be to young to remmber when 20 companys using the same chips all used their own driver versions......god that was a pain.....

as to agp, depends on the system, my buddy said the 8's are working with his agp cards, the 8's work with this x1300 agp i have in my mothers system(use it to play movies and for her to do work on :) )

try the omega's he has an agp mode for the newer drivers that use a mix of old and new files, his latist drivers are still the 7.12's tho, but they do work with the agp cards!!!!!

[thegave]

tk make me a real member and I'll give you an e-hug

[ChillyMyst]

Well i have no clue as to why the 3D core was being dumped (DX 9C, and Games not loading)
So i went back to what works, maybe after i get some good backup software i will try a newer driver.

make sure you update dx to latist versions, then uninstall drivers, restart to safe mode and run driver cleaner, then restart and install the drivers, that SHOULD work!!!!

[eidairaman1]

make sure you update dx to latist versions, then uninstall drivers, restart to safe mode and run driver cleaner, then restart and install the drivers, that SHOULD work!!!!

CM the DX was up to NOV 2007, i had it updated on previous install and that problem occurred, but all is well now, also to the fact ATI apparently is releasing AGP drivers every 3 months, since 7.8 7.9 didnt work and i believe 7.10s didnt either.

[ChillyMyst]

as i understand it the problems stim from the brige chip used, the 8's are working on most peoples systems it seems, if you dont have a sink on the brige chip ADD ONE, use some thermal tape, that chip gets so hot it will blister ur finger if u touch it :)

[thegave]

The Rialto bridge chip?

Mine has a piece of weird pink-fleshy coloured thing on it.. I would imagine its some kind of thermal tape. If I sink the chip should I just stick the sink on top of the weird pink thing or take it off and sink the chip directly?

[ChillyMyst]

The Rialto bridge chip?

Mine has a piece of weird pink-fleshy coloured thing on it.. I would imagine its some kind of thermal tape. If I sink the chip should I just stick the sink on top of the weird pink thing or take it off and sink the chip directly?

they normaly cut the center out of the pink thing, if not do that, so that your heatsink you add will stick dirrectly to the core of the chip, remmber this chip gets HOT u need a decent sized chipset sink to properly cool itnot ur avrage ram sink.

i used a cooler that was off the shouthbrige of a board i had, about size of the old 486 heatsinks, made a world of diffrance, card had stability issues b4 now its rock stable :)

[eidairaman1]

hey anyone running UT3 on a AGP 1950 Pro 512 at max detail on a 1280x1024 screen without any chopiness?

[thegave]

Um.. There is a hole in the middle, but it's not very big. About 2mm squared max.. will the heatsink still be able to touch the core? The pink thing is pretty thick.

I'm planning to chop up my old stock Dell hsf for the Rialto and the ram and mosfets and whatever other things you think I should sink..

How big should I make the individual ones? Can they be smaller since they're taller? NB sinks tend to be pretty big, didn't know SBs were sinked..

Um haven't tried running UT3 yet. But COD4 runs great at 1280x1024 highish settings not max though. By great I mean like 40+

[eidairaman1]

it wont touch, your better off taking that pink thing off applying AS5 Epoxy with AS5 Compound mixed in and sticking a chipsink on it that wont intefere with the slot. Just get recommendations from here before removing that pink thing
Um.. There is a hole in the middle, but it's not very big. About 2mm squared max.. will the heatsink still be able to touch the core? The pink thing is pretty thick.

I'm planning to chop up my old stock Dell hsf for the Rialto and the ram and mosfets and whatever other things you think I should sink..

How big should I make the individual ones? Can they be smaller since they're taller? NB sinks tend to be pretty big, didn't know SBs were sinked..

[thegave]

Ugh damnit I don't have any arctic adhesive.

I'm just gonna use as5 with a drop of araldite.

anyone else, should i rip off the pink pad?

[erocker]

Don't mess with the pink thing... TRUST ME!!!! Leave it alone. Not worth it. Dead end. BEWARE!!! Seriously.:cool:

[eidairaman1]

ya i wouldnt run it without it unless if you put a heatsink on.

[eidairaman1]

Well looky Here, it appears the DX problem was driver related after all

http://support.ati.com/ics/support/kbAnswer.asp?questionID=31542

http://www.ngohq.com/news/13268-ati-catalyst-8-1-hotfix.html

[Widjaja]

it wont touch, your better off taking that pink thing off applying AS5 Epoxy with AS5 Compound mixed in and sticking a chipsink on it that wont intefere with the slot. Just get recommendations from here before removing that pink thing

Don't rip off the cards pink bit.

The fleshy pink bit is the rialto bridge chips thermal pad, placed there to help dissapate heat from the chip, it's pretty much the Rialto bridge chip's heatsink.
I don't know why they would place a hole in the centre though.

Apparently the bridge chip is the cause of the heat from the X1950pro AGP compared to the PCI-E version.

I wouldn't be surprized either as my card idles at 55-56C and 82-86C max load in summer.
Hasn't messed up on me once.

[Craigleberry]

Don't mess with the pink thing... TRUST ME!!!! Leave it alone. Not worth it. Dead end. BEWARE!!! Seriously.:cool:

ROFL My GF tells me that all of the time! Nah just kidding, On a more serious note that thermal pad on the backside of the AGP's is there for a reason. I wouldnt take it off.:eek:

[eidairaman1]

i wouldnt remove it and then not replace it with a heatsink.

[Widjaja]

You'll have to find somthing which will be effective as a heatsink.
Maybe cut down a passive SB heatsink?

If you want your card to be the guinea pig go for it, I think alot of people would be interested in the results.

I know the early Sapphire X1950pro AGP's used to have a X shaped bracket on the back which needed a corner of the rialto chip's thermal pad to be cut off as pictured at the bottom of the first page in this driver heaven review.
http://www.driverheaven.net/reviews/Sapphire%20X1950Pro%20AGP/index.php

Unsure of the reason for the bracket being removed in later cards.

[thegave]

I don't know if I'm not being clear or if people aren't reading my question properly so here it goes again:

Should I take off the pink thermal pad in order to put a heatsink on the Rialto chip, or should I just stick the heatsink on top of the pad?

If I stick it on top then the heatsink won't be touching the actual chip itself and I don't know how well the pad conducts heat.

I'm planning to chop up a stock Dell s478 heatsink, which I've just realised is fucking massive, so I may take the NB sink off the Dell mobo, or chop up my X800 (RIP) stock cooler..

Off topic, I didn't know the earlier Sapphires already had the heatsink for the vregs. They're smart cookies. But those were part of the stock cooler weren't they? So taking the stock cooler off left the vregs exposed?

Second question:

How should I go about attaching this heatsink? I don't have Arctic Alumina Adhesive and tbh I'm too lazy/cheap to go out and buy some so I was thinking a dab of Araldite (regular epoxy) surrounded by thermal paste?

[eidairaman1]

ok man the little pink pad is not an adhesive so it wont transfer heat to the heatsink you intend to use, besides that space in the middle will defeat the purpose of the heatsink if the pink pad was adhesive. If you dont intend on putting a heatsink on the chip leave that pink pad there, if you intend on removing it, make sure to clean off the chip and apply AS5 Epoxy with AS5 Compound to make a semi permanent Contact (Holds the sink on but allows you to remove it if you decide to upgrade it) Make sure to apply the Heatsink to the Epoxy after you apply it to the chip. the AS5 Compound Mixed with the Epoxy worked wonders for a Mobility Radeon 9800 256 in a Dell Inspiron XPS/9100 laptop. Also if you want an example look here the little silver metal plate is ontop of 4 Ram Modules, I removed that plate and installed tweakmonster ramsinks and it allowed bettercooling for overclocking (351/300-->459/417) http://www.overclockers.com/articles1200/index02.asp

I don't know if I'm not being clear or if people aren't reading my question properly so here it goes again:

Should I take off the pink thermal pad in order to put a heatsink on the Rialto chip, or should I just stick the heatsink on top of the pad?

If I stick it on top then the heatsink won't be touching the actual chip itself and I don't know how well the pad conducts heat.

I'm planning to chop up a stock Dell s478 heatsink, which I've just realised is fucking massive, so I may take the NB sink off the Dell mobo, or chop up my X800 (RIP) stock cooler..

Off topic, I didn't know the earlier Sapphires already had the heatsink for the vregs. They're smart cookies. But those were part of the stock cooler weren't they? So taking the stock cooler off left the vregs exposed?

Second question:

How should I go about attaching this heatsink? I don't have Arctic Alumina Adhesive and tbh I'm too lazy/cheap to go out and buy some so I was thinking a dab of Araldite (regular epoxy) surrounded by thermal paste?

[thegave]

What about mixing regular epoxy (Araldite) with AS5 instead of using Arctic Silver's special stuff?

Is there anything to prove AS Epoxy is better than regular stuff?

[[I.R.A]_FBi]

hd3870 prices have fianlly gone down on teh egg ...

[eidairaman1]

What about mixing regular epoxy (Araldite) with AS5 instead of using Arctic Silver's special stuff?

Is there anything to prove AS Epoxy is better than regular stuff?

The Thermal Epoxy is thermally conductive, regular epoxies are just glue.

[tkpenalty]

The Thermal Epoxy is thermally conductive, regular epoxies are just glue.

Yep, regular expoxies should only be applied on the sides of the heatsink and chip, just to hold them down.

[erocker]

For the Rialto chip. Leave the pink thing on as it covers the resistors around the Rialto chip. Use a small drop of thermal epoxy directly on the chip in the center of the pink stuff and place the heatsink on. Done.

[tkpenalty]

For the Rialto chip. Leave the pink thing on as it covers the resistors around the Rialto chip. Use a small drop of thermal epoxy directly on the chip in the center of the pink stuff and place the heatsink on. Done.

+1

http://img.techpowerup.org/080214/IMG_0217.jpg

:D

[thegave]

For the Rialto chip. Leave the pink thing on as it covers the resistors around the Rialto chip. Use a small drop of thermal epoxy directly on the chip in the center of the pink stuff and place the heatsink on. Done.

A small drop to create thermal contact between the sink and the chip but don't fill the hole?

What about filling the hole with AS5 and using a bit of glue on the pink pad to hold the hs down

[tkpenalty]

A small drop to create thermal contact between the sink and the chip but don't fill the hole?

What about filling the hole with AS5 and using a bit of glue on the pink pad to hold the hs down

Try that, but it only works if the pad is lower or on the same level as the chip itself.

[tkpenalty]

whats going on to the clubhouse =_+ *bumps*

[happita]

whats going on to the clubhouse =_+ *bumps*

I want to be a member tk :)

I just updated my system specs today. I ordered the whole thing this week, should all be here by tuesday. I'm so excited!!! :eek:


Also I just had a suggestion. As I was reading through your entire first post, I noticed in the contents that you have recommended air coolers for the earlier generation ATI cards but none for the HD3k series. Well, I think it would be a good idea for you to post this and other people's experiences along with it :toast:

[thegave]

Try that, but it only works if the pad is lower or on the same level as the chip itself.

But it won't be because the pad is stuck on top of the chip isn't it? How about cutting a larger hole into the pad so it exposes more (or all) of the rialto chip while still covering the resistors?

I'm still not on the member list =(

[eidairaman1]

A small drop to create thermal contact between the sink and the chip but don't fill the hole?

What about filling the hole with AS5 and using a bit of glue on the pink pad to hold the hs down

AS5 doesnt work very well in excessive quantities, i should know with the Inspiron 9100/XPS laptop.

[tkpenalty]

But it won't be because the pad is stuck on top of the chip isn't it? How about cutting a larger hole into the pad so it exposes more (or all) of the rialto chip while still covering the resistors?

I'm still not on the member list =(

I'll get to it... i havent got to it for the 8 series clubhouse too. You're in so remind me some other time to add you on the list.

No, we mean make a heatsink the size of the hole. Keep the pink pad as it is keeping the capacitors around it cool. Make a heatsink the size of the hole (pretty hard), and then use thermal adhesive to directly stick it on. Even AS5, just be careful not to put too much as it will squeeze to the sides. Its a mess to clean up so yeah...

[Widjaja]

@ TheGave

Here's just an idea, the Microcool Passive Southbridge heatsink might fit on the Rialto Bridge chip without cutting it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Microcool-South-Sink-Southbridge-Passive-Heatsink-Black_W0QQitemZ220201918986QQcmdZViewItem?IMSfp=TL 0802141070a33341

Possilbly use some thermal conductive epoxy on top of the pink pad and place the heatsink directly on top.

[thegave]

tk: the hole is friggin tiny! it's like 2mm x 5mm ... I thought someone said something about the rialto needing serious cooling, like a SB chipset sink at minimum, ram sinks wouldn't do?

what about getting a piece of double-sided thermal tape the same size as the pink pad and replacing the pink pad with it so it covers all the caps and chip and then getting a sink the same size as the pad to stick on top, so everything is cooled by the sink?

Widjaja: that's what I was thinking but most people are saying the pink pad doesn't/wont conduct heat, and that still leaves the problem of the hole in the pad, which will make a very good insulating pocket for the Rialto

[tkpenalty]

tk: the hole is friggin tiny! it's like 2mm x 5mm ... I thought someone said something about the rialto needing serious cooling, like a SB chipset sink at minimum, ram sinks wouldn't do?

what about getting a piece of double-sided thermal tape the same size as the pink pad and replacing the pink pad with it so it covers all the caps and chip and then getting a sink the same size as the pad to stick on top, so everything is cooled by the sink?

Widjaja: that's what I was thinking but most people are saying the pink pad doesn't/wont conduct heat, and that still leaves the problem of the hole in the pad, which will make a very good insulating pocket for the Rialto

A small ramsink will do. The rialto chipset doesnt run THAT hot. If it did it would spurt out a flame.

No that wont work. Just stick a small ramsink on top of it, and you will be fine... the pink pad I reckon is a protection pad as the capcacitors on it are extremely fragile. I wouldnt try ripping it off... you will tear off some capacitors doing that.

[thegave]

Are you guys sure it covers caps?

I had a closer look at it yesterday while I was rebuilding and it seems to be pretty flush with the chip on all sides...

I took some pictures for you to look at...

Doesn't seem as if there's anything besides that chip underneath. Unless there are holes in the chip where capacitators are, or there are capacitators on the surface of the chip...

http://rs159gc.rapidshare.com/files/93131594/IMG_4458.JPG
http://rapidshare.com/files/93131597/IMG_4461.JPG
http://rapidshare.com/files/93131596/IMG_4460.JPG
http://rapidshare.com/files/93131595/IMG_4459.JPG

Goddamnit those are sucky pictures

[Widjaja]

Looking at my X1950pro, I don't think it has anything under it other than the chip itself.
You need some definite anwsers.

Like. . . will I damage the Rialto Bridge I remove the pink thermal pad and clean the chip immaculately, then replace it with a SB heatsink which has an adhesive thermal pad.

Thing is, I'd say no one has done it so no definitive answer.
But hey you could be the first to give such an answer if you don't mind the chance of the card not working.

I don't overclock my card since it runs fine as it is.
Yes it does run damn hot at times 86degC max load but I have never had an issue with it.

[thegave]

I'm gonna do it with the vreg heatspreader that came with my ARtic Cooling since I have two that I don't really need...

Back with pics

Pics

http://rapidshare.com/files/93207143/IMG_4462.JPG

Looks like the GPU, it's a bunch of little caps on the surface of the chip with the realto core slightly raised.

i'm trying (and failing) to stick a small piece of thermal tape the same size as the hole on to the rialto core and then stick my vrm heatspreader on top. it's not working very well. mostly because i'm not letting the araldite set...

but on a completely unrelated note, i did the 1.4v vgpu mod, which made the card artifact as soon as i started the att 3d renderer. so i did the 1.30 (1.35?) vgpu mod and now i'm artifact scanning on 668 stable for 13 minutes.

not sure if i ishould leave it on to burn in over dinner, or take it out and let the heatspreader stick..

more interesting notes

araldite doesn't stick to the pink thermal pad particularly well, which I found odd. it rubbed off very easily. I ended up removing the thermal pad, taking two pieces of thermal tape off the stock hsf and placing them side by side on top of the chip and then the ac heatspreader on top. seems to be working, haven't had any crashes and the heatspreader is still more or less attached.

speaking of crashes, i left it to bench over dinner and it ended up going for 6 hours while i had some drinks with mates. the "no errors" time didn't match up with the "running for" time which I'm assuming meant it had artifacted at some point while I was gone, but I noticed that my ghetto cooling mod had fallen out of place so that could have been why.

Speaking of my ghetto cooling mod, I discovered that the VRM sink still gets quite hot to the touch after the voltmod, so I duct-taped the fan off my stock 3.4ghz northy hsf to the card so it blows air on it..

Now artifact scanning at 681/823 see how it goes. Stable so far at 8 minutes.

By the way do I need to be running a 3D app while using ATi Tool? it's what Alp from the 0.27beta thread keeps telling me.... he said ati tool on its own doesn't detect 3d mode very well....

more pics

The most ghetto mods you will ever see

-VRM sink mod
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/the_gave/IMG_4463.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/the_gave/IMG_4464.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/the_gave/IMG_4466.jpg

-Rialto chip mod
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/the_gave/IMG_4477.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/the_gave/IMG_4476.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/the_gave/IMG_4473.jpg

[tkpenalty]

Looking at my X1950pro, I don't think it has anything under it other than the chip itself.
You need some definite anwsers.

Like. . . will I damage the Rialto Bridge I remove the pink thermal pad and clean the chip immaculately, then replace it with a SB heatsink which has an adhesive thermal pad.

Thing is, I'd say no one has done it so no definitive answer.
But hey you could be the first to give such an answer if you don't mind the chance of the card not working.

I don't overclock my card since it runs fine as it is.
Yes it does run damn hot at times 86degC max load but I have never had an issue with it.


The rialto bridge chipset has capacitors which are small and fragile. The pink pad is for preotection. One would assume that tearing them off could possibly tear off the fragile capacitors with them.

I'm gonna do it with the vreg heatspreader that came with my ARtic Cooling since I have two that I don't really need...

Back with pics

Pics

http://rapidshare.com/files/93207143/IMG_4462.JPG

Looks like the GPU, it's a bunch of little caps on the surface of the chip with the realto core slightly raised.

i'm trying (and failing) to stick a small piece of thermal tape the same size as the hole on to the rialto core and then stick my vrm heatspreader on top. it's not working very well. mostly because i'm not letting the araldite set...

but on a completely unrelated note, i did the 1.4v vgpu mod, which made the card artifact as soon as i started the att 3d renderer. so i did the 1.30 (1.35?) vgpu mod and now i'm artifact scanning on 668 stable for 13 minutes.

not sure if i ishould leave it on to burn in over dinner, or take it out and let the heatspreader stick..

more interesting notes

araldite doesn't stick to the pink thermal pad particularly well, which I found odd. it rubbed off very easily. I ended up removing the thermal pad, taking two pieces of thermal tape off the stock hsf and placing them side by side on top of the chip and then the ac heatspreader on top. seems to be working, haven't had any crashes and the heatspreader is still more or less attached.

speaking of crashes, i left it to bench over dinner and it ended up going for 6 hours while i had some drinks with mates. the "no errors" time didn't match up with the "running for" time which I'm assuming meant it had artifacted at some point while I was gone, but I noticed that my ghetto cooling mod had fallen out of place so that could have been why.

Speaking of my ghetto cooling mod, I discovered that the VRM sink still gets quite hot to the touch after the voltmod, so I duct-taped the fan off my stock 3.4ghz northy hsf to the card so it blows air on it..

Now artifact scanning at 681/823 see how it goes. Stable so far at 8 minutes.

By the way do I need to be running a 3D app while using ATi Tool? it's what Alp from the 0.27beta thread keeps telling me.... he said ati tool on its own doesn't detect 3d mode very well....

more pics

The most ghetto mods you will ever see

-VRM sink mod
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/the_gave/IMG_4463.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/the_gave/IMG_4464.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/the_gave/IMG_4466.jpg

-Rialto chip mod
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/the_gave/IMG_4477.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/the_gave/IMG_4476.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/the_gave/IMG_4473.jpg

You just made your X1950PRO look a whole lot cooler (lame pun).

Seriously those VRMs need a LOT of cooling, the VRM plate from AC isnt enough.

[thegave]

Hahahahahah whoops never thought abuot that. Nah I don't think they're that fragile. I was ripping thermal tape off and putting it back on all afternoon and i didn't notice any come off. I know this because I kept checking the underside of the pad to see if it was making good contact with the core and teh caps, which it seems to be.

My card came with sapphire's special vrm heatsink..I think I posted a picture of it when I first started posting in here. It actually has fins and is really much better than the AC heatspreader, which is why I was suprised how hot it was getting.

[Widjaja]

Ghetto alright!
As long as it works well and or better than stock.

Next is to make the mods soild so no duct tape.

[tkpenalty]

Hahahahahah whoops never thought abuot that. Nah I don't think they're that fragile. I was ripping thermal tape off and putting it back on all afternoon and i didn't notice any come off. I know this because I kept checking the underside of the pad to see if it was making good contact with the core and teh caps, which it seems to be.

My card came with sapphire's special vrm heatsink..I think I posted a picture of it when I first started posting in here. It actually has fins and is really much better than the AC heatspreader, which is why I was suprised how hot it was getting.

Thats good to hear then...

[thegave]

Problem is I don't know how to make the mod solid... The duct tape on the heatspreader isn't actually doing anything, so I think the thermal pads are holding it quite well. I don't know how else to hold it in place...

As for the fan, it doesn't have any holes which I found rather annoying in trying to tie it down. There's only one hole on my board too. I found that taping the fan to the X2 housing seems to work slightly better than the duct tape around the card. I'm just a huge fan of duct tape for it's ghetto look. It keeps falling off though so I will need to come up with something more permanent.

Now the question is... Can anyone hook me up with a vmod for 1.4V gpu?

I tried to follow one for a different card just matching up the resistors but then I found orientation of resistors and solder blobs were different.

Imagine - is a resistor and o is a solder blob,

my card
-o
-o
-o
o-
o-
-o

the guide's card
o-
o-
-o
-o
o-
-o

Which may explain why I got artifacts the first time I tried it...

I reckon my card's made with some damn good silicon.

Anyhoo, [polite reminder], update my OC to 671/823 please tk. Once I find the gpu max I'll start working on the mem. Would love to get 1700MHz DDR.

[tkpenalty]

Problem is I don't know how to make the mod solid... The duct tape on the heatspreader isn't actually doing anything, so I think the thermal pads are holding it quite well. I don't know how else to hold it in place...

As for the fan, it doesn't have any holes which I found rather annoying in trying to tie it down. There's only one hole on my board too. I found that taping the fan to the X2 housing seems to work slightly better than the duct tape around the card. I'm just a huge fan of duct tape for it's ghetto look. It keeps falling off though so I will need to come up with something more permanent.

Now the question is... Can anyone hook me up with a vmod for 1.4V gpu?

I tried to follow one for a different card just matching up the resistors but then I found orientation of resistors and solder blobs were different.

Imagine - is a resistor and o is a solder blob,

my card
-o
-o
-o
o-
o-
-o

the guide's card
o-
o-
-o
-o
o-
-o

Which may explain why I got artifacts the first time I tried it...

I reckon my card's made with some damn good silicon.

Anyhoo, [polite reminder], update my OC to 671/823 please tk. Once I find the gpu max I'll start working on the mem. Would love to get 1700MHz DDR.

Nice find, that means your GPU is prevoltmodded...

[thegave]

Huh does it?

I thought certain rows of solder blobs and resistors had to be bridged to enable various vgpu levels... Mine aren't at all bridged, they're just in the wrong place sometimes... Unless that means the resistor is doing the bridging??


Heh cool stabilised the P4 fan by threading a twizzle tie through a corner mounting hole and then using it to hook on to the fan frame. now the fan sits on the black extension of the X2 housing and the outer-most molex and the twizzle tie holds it close to the board so it doesn't slip.

Cool. More burning in coming
Here's a question for everyone:

To what extent does overclocking the memory affect the gpu overclock?

And anyone know the hard vmod for more than 1.35v on a Sapphire X1950Pro *AGP* (not the same as the X1950GT)?

I tried to artifact scan with CSS running in a window at 681/823 and then went to eat dinner but when I got back I found an empty desktop so I'm assuming it must have reboot. This is odd, because normally when I get a hard lock on the card it doesn't reboot.

So... Now I'm scanning at 681/756 and it's been ok for 20 minutes (I was at dinner for about this long) but without any other 3D apps running.

Is it the case that 681/823 is simply too much for my card to handle so by backing off on the memory i can clock higher,
or
was running CSS in a window and the artifact scanner too much for it to take,
or am I not getting enough volts to the gpu?

[tkpenalty]

Huh does it?

I thought certain rows of solder blobs and resistors had to be bridged to enable various vgpu levels... Mine aren't at all bridged, they're just in the wrong place sometimes... Unless that means the resistor is doing the bridging??


Heh cool stabilised the P4 fan by threading a twizzle tie through a corner mounting hole and then using it to hook on to the fan frame. now the fan sits on the black extension of the X2 housing and the outer-most molex and the twizzle tie holds it close to the board so it doesn't slip.

Cool. More burning in coming
Here's a question for everyone:

To what extent does overclocking the memory affect the gpu overclock?

And anyone know the hard vmod for more than 1.35v on a Sapphire X1950Pro *AGP* (not the same as the X1950GT)?

I tried to artifact scan with CSS running in a window at 681/823 and then went to eat dinner but when I got back I found an empty desktop so I'm assuming it must have reboot. This is odd, because normally when I get a hard lock on the card it doesn't reboot.

So... Now I'm scanning at 681/756 and it's been ok for 20 minutes (I was at dinner for about this long) but without any other 3D apps running.

Is it the case that 681/823 is simply too much for my card to handle so by backing off on the memory i can clock higher,
or
was running CSS in a window and the artifact scanner too much for it to take,
or am I not getting enough volts to the gpu?

To be honest with you, don't even overclock the X1950PRO... even with excessive voltmodding, what you get out of it for your effort, isnt worth it. Maybe a HD3850, but not a X1950PRO.

OFF TOPIC: http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?p=659300#post659300 < just look if you want.....

[thegave]

=(

volt modding in itself isnt that difficult... it's just connecting traces or resistors. I bought some conductive silver paint which does the job very effectively, temperature isn't a big deal because i'm only loading at 55max. not even games get that hot.... yeeah. I just enjoy the satisifaction of pushing every last drop of power out of my stuff...

now it's just a matter of knowing which traces to bridge... =(

[KainXS]

can I join

http://img.techpowerup.org/080222/P1010419.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/080222/P1010422.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/080222/P1010420.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/080222/P1010425.jpg

I had to remove the X-Fi to check some of the pins on it and the heatsink on the southbridge to lap it.

[tkpenalty]

can I join

http://img.techpowerup.org/080222/P1010419.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/080222/P1010422.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/080222/P1010420.jpg

http://img.techpowerup.org/080222/P1010425.jpg

I had to remove the X-Fi to check some of the pins on it and the heatsink on the southbridge to lap it.

Yeah, HD3870X2? :confused:

[KainXS]

Yeah, HD3870X2? :confused:

no thats in the system I'm building now(NEW)

updating now

thats a Sapphire 3850, sorry for the confusion.

[tkpenalty]

no thats in the system I'm building now(NEW)

updating now

thats a Sapphire 3850, sorry for the confusion.

Oh okay then.....

[tkpenalty]

http://img.techpowerup.org/080223/IMG_0165.jpg

Removed the plastic bits on the cooler, why are they there? I think Arctic cooling could cut back on that and save us like one or two dollars... totally unecessary.

[Wile E]

http://img.techpowerup.org/080223/IMG_0165.jpg

Removed the plastic bits on the cooler, why are they there? I think Arctic cooling could cut back on that and save us like one or two dollars... totally unecessary.

Because the looks of the components are a strong selling point to many people.

[tkpenalty]

Because the looks of the components are a strong selling point to many people.

Thats somewhat true...

[eidairaman1]

any good drivers for 1950 Pro AGP 512?

[Widjaja]

I'm using the 7.12cat still with my Sapphire X1950pro 512MB AGP and haven't had a problem.
Too lazy to change the drivers plus the 8800GT is in the post so I won't be using the X1950pro soon.

[DaedalusHelios]

tkpenalty can I join? :cool: The Sapphire 3850 512mb with vf900 installed. 850 Core 2.1Ghz Memory and 1.274V.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-9/1276452/HPIM0657.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-9/1276452/HPIM0672.JPG

Bench:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-9/1276452/3DMark_2006_v102oc4E.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-9/1276452/cpuz3rdcomp.jpg

[thegave]

Cat 7.12s are still the best. For the X2 the black plastic thing helps channel air towards the vregs doesn't it?

Oh and I thought I had mentioned this, but I did the 1.47v gpu mod... Seems to have worked, no way or knowledge of how to measure vgu correctly but core temp is up a couple of degrees. Have been burning in slowly at 675 core(?) Artifacts pop up but but only like once an hour, if not less... And I barely notice them myself. Temps peak at 56, no higher so that's still about 15 below peak on stock with stock cooler. I'm going to redo the Rialto heatspreader with some proper new Sekisui tape which should hopefully a)make better contact with the chip and resistors, and b)hold the heatspreader on properly. At the moment its not sticking very well and there are gaps etc, think this contributes to instability...

[eidairaman1]

thegave, if your card is artifacting thats not good, thats showing something is overheating, the card will continue to get worse. but one thing does it artifact in games or test programs? To be honest i wonder why ati left the rialto chip exposed the way they did they could of caped it like the CPUs.

[thegave]

dont worry its only artifacting in atitool which ive always considered more conservative than realworld apps like games. I say artifacting but i really mean atitool is sporadically reporting artifacts which i cant see it only lasts for less than a second and then goes on for another long period. I doubt its a heat thing since core peaks at 56'C and ive run my baby at 72'C before. However it could have something to do with the Rialto not being sufficiently cooled so i'll have to wait for the sekisui and see. What do you mean cap? Like an integrated heatspreader thAt they put on CPU cores? I reckon its cos the caps are lower than the chip so there wouldnt be any contact between the caps and ihs, unless the caps don't need cooling, then yea a ihs wouldve been a really good idea. They probably didn't just to keep costs down. Then again the GPU doesn't have ah ihs either, just a shim.

Also heat isn't the only thing that causes artifacts, a GPU that doesn't have enough voltage will also artifact, like when overclocking.

[tkpenalty]

dont worry its only artifacting in atitool which ive always considered more conservative than realworld apps like games. I say artifacting but i really mean atitool is sporadically reporting artifacts which i cant see it only lasts for less than a second and then goes on for another long period. I doubt its a heat thing since core peaks at 56'C and ive run my baby at 72'C before. However it could have something to do with the Rialto not being sufficiently cooled so i'll have to wait for the sekisui and see. What do you mean cap? Like an integrated heatspreader thAt they put on CPU cores? I reckon its cos the caps are lower than the chip so there wouldnt be any contact between the caps and ihs, unless the caps don't need cooling, then yea a ihs wouldve been a really good idea. They probably didn't just to keep costs down. Then again the GPU doesn't have ah ihs either, just a shim.

Also heat isn't the only thing that causes artifacts, a GPU that doesn't have enough voltage will also artifact, like when overclocking.

If you get delta artifacts you dont have enough voltage, however these are more like "warnings" than actual artifacts. However artifacting due to temperatures, i'd really pull the clocks back to prevent any possible degradation of the silicon.

[tkpenalty]

Cat 7.12s are still the best. For the X2 the black plastic thing helps channel air towards the vregs doesn't it?

Oh and I thought I had mentioned this, but I did the 1.47v gpu mod... Seems to have worked, no way or knowledge of how to measure vgu correctly but core temp is up a couple of degrees. Have been burning in slowly at 675 core(?) Artifacts pop up but but only like once an hour, if not less... And I barely notice them myself. Temps peak at 56, no higher so that's still about 15 below peak on stock with stock cooler. I'm going to redo the Rialto heatspreader with some proper new Sekisui tape which should hopefully a)make better contact with the chip and resistors, and b)hold the heatspreader on properly. At the moment its not sticking very well and there are gaps etc, think this contributes to instability...

Have a feel at the back of your vregs... you will be surprised how hot it is.

[DaedalusHelios]

Hey tkpenalty, is it a yes? :confused:

Just wondering because you didn't say anything. :D

[thegave]

Doesn't make sense to have artifacts at 56'C if I've run at 72'C no problems.

Back of the vregs as in back of the card?

Maybe I'll squeeze another fan back there.

*Friendly reminder*

You added Kain but not me? =(

[tkpenalty]

Doesn't make sense to have artifacts at 56'C if I've run at 72'C no problems.

Back of the vregs as in back of the card?

Maybe I'll squeeze another fan back there.

*Friendly reminder*

You added Kain but not me? =(

eh... forgot.

Have a touch of the back of the PCB where the vregs are.. I assure you its almost too hot to touch. I placed a heatsink there where there was no actual components/soldering points.

[tkpenalty]

Hey tkpenalty, is it a yes? :confused:

Just wondering because you didn't say anything. :D

Yes as well ur in! :laugh: I'm too busy to keep up so give me a knock!

[thegave]

Well i should have some spare sekisui... Only orderd a 6" strip... =/

Shit I need some heatsinks... Hmm would the Arctic Cooling vreg heatspreader do? haha I need to find some use for them..

How do you tell the difference between delta artifacts and heat artifacts? In ATI Tool I see the world delta pop up briefly when it reports artifacts but I think it always says that... I always thought that once heat artifacts showed up they stayed and don't disappear for a couple of seconds... which is why I'm not so sure it's heat related.

Also you were right about the back of the pcb, it does get quite warm but not too hot to touch. i guess the fan and sapphire's extra little heatsink are doing their job, but i'm still going to put some thermal tape and the other heatspreader just to help things out.

[tkpenalty]

Err what happened?

[thegave]

I got an iPhone... =DD..

And I'm waiting for delivery of my 3.2EE

So X1950's on holiday for the week.

[mitsirfishi]

funky if your going to get a 3.2extreme edition id recommend upgrading from a stock cooling solution...

[overclocker]

so can i join his hd 3850 256mb ddr3?

[tkpenalty]

funky if your going to get a 3.2extreme edition id recommend upgrading from a stock cooling solution...

Hes using stock? :eek: I'd be interested to see how much more performance your 3.2Ghz EE will give for your X1950PRO...