TEC Coldplates

[tkpenalty]

Hmm... I've been thinking all along, why doesnt anyone use TEC cold plates + their monster coolers these days? Whats the deal with that? And where can I get them anyway?

[pagalms]

Titan Amanda and Swiftech MCW6500-T are with coldplate

http://img.tomshardware.com/uk/2006/11/02/holiday_buyers_guide_2006/titan-tec-amanda2.jpg

http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/swiftech_mcw6500t/15_thumb.jpg

We had a thread about TEC cooling in local latvian pc modding forum, but it's not in english, so you will not understand anything. Anyway we came to conclusion, that TEC is not good for long time use.

[[I.R.A]_FBi]

there is an ultra cooler with tec as well.

[[I.R.A]_FBi]

http://www.ultraproducts.com/product_details.php?cPath=17&pPath=571&productID=571

[tkpenalty]

Err... TEC coldplates themselves; the ones you sandwich between CPU and cooler.

[mandelore]

no point, the cold plate is there to act as a temperature buffer allowing the uneven temperature profile of the cold ceramic plate of a TEC to be smoothed out providing uniform temperature distribution as well as acting as a high density conductive platform letting the copper coldplate absorb heat from the cpu while allowing the cold ceramic side of the TEC to get cold enough, so by the time the heat has started transfering thru the coldplate the TEC is fully chilled and can start acting on the coldplate itself. using a cold plate on a regular cooler, while not really being detrimental once the temperatures even out, will just increase the distance the heat has to travel to be dispersed by the cooling fins on a regular cooler

[mandelore]

Titan Amanda and Swiftech MCW6500-T are with coldplate

http://img.tomshardware.com/uk/2006/11/02/holiday_buyers_guide_2006/titan-tec-amanda2.jpg

http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/swiftech_mcw6500t/15_thumb.jpg

We had a thread about TEC cooling in local latvian pc modding forum, but it's not in english, so you will not understand anything. Anyway we came to conclusion, that TEC is not good for long time use.

TEC cooling not good for long term use? lol

*Edit: however the use of TEC cooling with air cooling is just BAD, highly inneficient and total waste imo, unless fluid is incorporated intot he cooling u just end up with a power hungry crap ass cooler

ive been strictly TEC cooling for well over 10 years ^^

got my QX9650 TEC cooled and load temps are a nice 9C when well over 4ghz, and thats with slightly less flow than id like. long term use is A-ok, as its a solid state cooler, no moving parts (excluding pump) and can run for a very long time before malfunction

heres the one I use: Arctic Web, from the project log thingy i made a while ago:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/10.jpg

[Eclecticos]

Oha I see. . so your watercooling your TEC?

Similar to the Dell H2C Cooling. .on the XPS. Cool!

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/9932/h2csystemwg5.jpg

[mandelore]

Oha. I see so your watercooling your TEC?

a tec shound NEVER be cooled any other way, as air cooling could only ever cool a very low wattage TEC module, and consiquently you could only keep the cpu barely under the best air cooler available, hence total waste. Im cooling a 437W TEC module via liquid cooling running it thru a Thermochil PA120.3 and a 120mm blackice rad.

[Eclecticos]

You haven't had any problems with condensation?

[mandelore]

You haven't had any problems with condensation?

no because you properly insulate against that using dielectric grease and neoprene insulation.

check out my project log if your interested:
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=49242&highlight=quad+extreme+project

just for example heres an excerpt from my project: (wont post nuthin more on it as not my thread here ^^)

anyways, any1 can use this as a general guide to insulating against condensation when using tec cooling

"Because the thermoelectric cooler will introduce subzero temperatures to my system, it is crucial to insulate accordingly. The first thing that I did was to cover all of the slots/connectors and cpu socket with tape and coat the motherboard pcb with a Conformal coating spray:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/1.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/1b.jpg

I then proceeded to spray the pcb, both front and back with conformal coating 3 times. Each time I allowed 15 minutes for curing before proceeding onto the next coat.

Once this was done, I then removed all the tape from the motherboard and moved onto insulating the internal part of the socket. I will post this next part as a sort of step-by-step guide for any members who want to know how to correctly use Dielectric grease.

1) Fill the central recess in the socket with dielectric grease till it is level with the socket pins:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/2.jpg

2) Smear dielectric grease across the pins and gaps in the socket, try to get it everywhere in the socket you can
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/3.jpg

3) Push in the CPU and the dielectric grease that is squeezed out try to spread this around the cap. Avoid getting this onto the IHS
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/4.jpg

4) Pull the lock lever and secure the cpu. Once secured into the socket proceed to squirt more dielectric grease into any visable voids and gaps. I found a small syringe ideal for this
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/5.jpg

5) Apply a neoprene gasket to the back of the pcb where the processor socket is located to insulate against condensation from the rear of the cpu.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/6.jpg

6) Add dielectric grease to the gaskets designed to fit around the processor socket and then place them onto the motherboard. I had to trim some of mine to allow for adjacent components. I also used silicone glue on the gaskets around the motherboard base to completely lock away any possibility of air getting in. Here you can also see where I have applied Liquid Metal Pro Thermal interface material to the CPU:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/7.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/8.jpg

All that was left to do was add neoprene to the Arctic Web block and then attach this to the motherboard:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/9.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/10.jpg

[tkpenalty]

Looks daunting... too unsafe...... =_=.

http://img.tomshardware.com/uk/2006/11/02/holiday_buyers_guide_2006/titan-tec-amanda2.jpg

With that I can see the issue as to why its inefficient... the heatpipe/fin design is inefficient anyway! So please explain... the heatpipe coolers serve as a radiator; a TEC will transfer heat faster than a heatpipe right? Note I do NOT want to drive temps so low that its like negative. I just want to drive it down slightly, lets see lower than ambient.

[Steevo]

Anytime something is lower than ambient condensation can become a problem, so a few degree temp drop for the same work involved with a full TEC/water setup is silly.


Mandelore. WOW, that is fucking awsome. If I ever want to go TEC may I send you mine to be setup? :D

[pagalms]

TEC cooling not good for long term use? lol


Forgot - with air cooling on it. :)
None of us was tried it with WC, especially in so great way as you did. Nice cooling setup ;)

[Eclecticos]

I got a Regulated powersupply from OmnitronElectronics.com (http://www.omnitronelectronics.net/phpstore/index.php?action=search)

I'm going to get this thing to work with a heatsink.

[panchoman]

no because you properly insulate against that using dielectric grease and neoprene insulation.

check out my project log if your interested:
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=49242&highlight=quad+extreme+project

just for example heres an excerpt from my project: (wont post nuthin more on it as not my thread here ^^)

anyways, any1 can use this as a general guide to insulating against condensation when using

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/3.jpg[/B]

3) Push in the CPU and the dielectric grease that is squeezed out try to spread this around the cap. Avoid getting this onto the IHS
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/4.jpg

4) Pull the lock lever and secure the cpu. Once secured into the socket proceed to squirt more dielectric grease into any visable voids and gaps. I found a small syringe ideal for this
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/5.jpg

5) Apply a neoprene gasket to the back of the pcb where the processor socket is located to insulate against condensation from the rear of the cpu.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/6.jpg

6) Add dielectric grease to the gaskets designed to fit around the processor socket and then place them onto the motherboard. I had to trim some of mine to allow for adjacent components. I also used silicone glue on the gaskets around the motherboard base to completely lock away any possibility of air getting in. Here you can also see where I have applied Liquid Metal Pro Thermal interface material to the CPU:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/7.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/8.jpg

All that was left to do was add neoprene to the Arctic Web block and then attach this to the motherboard:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/9.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/eve_images/fourth/10.jpg

you sir need to turn that into a guide!