MRCLs first contact with water

MRCL · Apr 10, 2009

Ok, here the pics of the leak testing:

- Before first switch-on of the pump

- Test in progress

- See that blue square? There's a leak somewhere between the fitting and the rad. I dunno why tho. Its driving me mad.Can't figure why it leaks there. Oh well,keep on tryin'

kyle2020 · Apr 10, 2009

whats that tape called . . . the white plumbers stuff, ptf tape or something? should seal the barb and the rad off nicely if you wrap some of that around your barb.

technicks · Apr 10, 2009

You mean Teflon tape.

kyle2020 · Apr 10, 2009

technicks said:
You mean Teflon tape.

Thats the stuff! (at least, I think it is lol).

MRCL · Apr 10, 2009

kyle2020 said:
whats that tape called . . . the white plumbers stuff, ptf tape or something? should seal the barb and the rad off nicely if you wrap some of that around your barb.

Gotta see if we still have a tube of that around. Examined the fitting. Nothing out of the ordinary. Lets see how that night turns out

technicks · Apr 10, 2009

Well i am off to bed. Have to work in 6 hours so it's already a short sleep.

Keep us updated i will check int the morning.

Good luck!

MRCL · Apr 10, 2009

technicks said:
Well i am off to bed. Have to work in 6 hours so it's already a short sleep.

Keep us updated i will check int the morning.

Good luck!

This is a good idea. Need the sleep. Willcome back toit tomorrow. It seems it only leaks when force is applied - eg the pump is on. Otherwise, no water escapes the loop. Yeh Yeh... good night everybody.

h3llb3nd4 · Apr 10, 2009

I like that 24pin extender, really nice

Cant wait how this project turns out....

MRCL · Apr 10, 2009

h3llb3nd4 said:
I like that 24pin extender, really nice
Cant wait how this project turns out....

Right now, it rests. I found some sealing paste, but guess what... its so old, the whole tube dried out. I reseated the o-ring of the fitting, but to no avail. Can't do anything right now, because all the hardware stores are closed for three days.

crtecha · Apr 10, 2009

you can use a plastic bag if you dont have teflon. Just your average thin plastic shopping back.

MRCL · Apr 10, 2009

crtecha said:
you can use a plastic bag if you dont have teflon. Just your average thin plastic shopping back.

...how do you mean that :wtf:

h3llb3nd4 · Apr 10, 2009

I' rather not try... too risky

phanbuey · Apr 10, 2009

crtecha said:
you can use a plastic bag if you dont have teflon. Just your average thin plastic shopping back.

That actually works pretty well. That and ketchup to clean the oxidation off a copper block if you dont want to re-lap it.

h3llb3nd4 · Apr 10, 2009

simple stuff, huh...
crap I didn't try any...

crtecha · Apr 10, 2009

You would just cut a strip and wrap the threads or barbs depending on your set up. I wouldnt recommend it for the long term. I worked as a carpenter and did a lot of diy stuff well still do. You can do a lot with little money

MRCL · Apr 10, 2009

crtecha said:
You would just cut a strip and wrap the threads or barbs depending on your set up. I wouldnt recommend it for the long term. I worked as a carpenter and did a lot of diy stuff well still do. You can do a lot with little money

Huh. I can try that.

MRCL · Apr 10, 2009

Hm either it doesn't work for me or I did it wrong :lol:

Sadasius · Apr 10, 2009

Drain it and start over. Means you have a problem with the fitting or the 'bung' hole on the rad. Could be a nick or something that is undermining the ring on the fitting. Using Teflon tape is a no no. It will expand the threads and then it will always leak, especially in acrylic, delrin etc. Take your time and see what the real problem is.

crtecha · Apr 10, 2009

ahh yeah im sorry I didnt think about the plastics threads being softer. Im used to black pipe work. Sorry MRCL it does work but maybe not best for you.

MRCL · Apr 10, 2009

Sadasius said:
Drain it and start over. Means you have a problem with the fitting or the 'bung' hole on the rad. Could be a nick or something that is undermining the ring on the fitting. Using Teflon tape is a no no. It will expand the threads and then it will always leak, especially in acrylic, delrin etc. Take your time and see what the real problem is.

Te problem is, that there is one tiny spot on the fitting thread, thats leaking. Small enough that only a drop every five seconds comes out, but its there. And I do not know why it does that.

crtecha said:
ahh yeah im sorry I didnt think about the plastics threads being softer. Im used to black pipe work. Sorry MRCL it does work but maybe not best for you.

Lol okay

h3llb3nd4 · Apr 10, 2009

silicone?putty?

Sadasius · Apr 10, 2009

Here is a small checklist of possible leak problems to look for in your situation.

1) A nick in the metal on the fitting where the ring sits. Even when the ring is compressed the fluid can leak past the ring. Solution....Replace fitting!

2) A bad weld in the 'bung' hole on the rad. Sometimes the GTX has a bad brazen weld that attach's the bung hole to the rad and can have a small pinhole leak that is persistent. Solution......RMA rad. Don't try to fix a broken bung hole....LOL

3) Rad bolts too long and has punctured a water tube. Funny enough but some people do do this without even realizing it and if the rad is on an angle it will move to the lowest point which is a fitting and make it look like it's leaking from a fitting when it's not. Solution.....Replace rad.

MRCL · Apr 10, 2009

Sadasius said:
Here is a small checklist of possible leak problems to look for in your situation.

1) A nick in the metal on the fitting where the ring sits. Even when the ring is compressed the fluid can leak past the ring. Solution....Replace fitting!

Must be that one. I just wrapped a rubber band you find in every household around the connection point. Like an external o-ring. I held the fluid back quite a while, but it leaked again. So really seems theres that nick in the fitting.

Sucks.

Sadasius · Apr 10, 2009

It happens more then we would all like to admit. It is why I order way more fittings then I need. It especially sucks when it's a $8 fitting or more.

MRCL · Apr 10, 2009

Sadasius said:
It happens more then we would all like to admit. It is why I order way more fittings then I need. It especially sucks when it's a $8 fitting or more.

Should have ordered more, too. You know what also sucks? Discovering this while its Easter holidays. If I order some fittings again, I will have them by next friday with inhuman luck.

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System Name	Fractality 1.0
Processor	Intel Core i7-860 @ 3.6GHz
Motherboard	EVGA P55 SLI
Cooling	Prolimatech Megahalems and four Fractal Design 120mm fans, sleeved
Memory	16GB Kingston Hyper RAM
Video Card(s)	PNY GeForce 580 XLR8
Storage	64GB and 180GB SSDs / 1TB and 2TB HDDs
Display(s)	24" Acer V243W
Case	Fractal Design Define R2, sleeved all I/O cables
Audio Device(s)	onboard
Power Supply	Corsair HX750W modular, sadly only stock sleeving
Software	Win 7 64bit

System Name	Lian Li Carbon fiber ed.
Processor	Intel i5 2500k 4.6Ghz 24/7 Max OC 5Ghz
Motherboard	Asrock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3
Cooling	Swiftech blocks, 360 Xflow rad, Swiftech 120 rad, Liang with XSPC res/pump top.
Memory	8Gb Mushkin 1600Mhz 8-9-8-24
Video Card(s)	Sapphire HD6950 2Gb
Storage	OCZ Vertex 4 128 / Western Digital 160
Display(s)	ASUS 25,5" wide VW266h
Power Supply	Corsair HX620 modular
Software	Windows 7 64

System Name	Fractality 1.0
Processor	Intel Core i7-860 @ 3.6GHz
Motherboard	EVGA P55 SLI
Cooling	Prolimatech Megahalems and four Fractal Design 120mm fans, sleeved
Memory	16GB Kingston Hyper RAM
Video Card(s)	PNY GeForce 580 XLR8
Storage	64GB and 180GB SSDs / 1TB and 2TB HDDs
Display(s)	24" Acer V243W
Case	Fractal Design Define R2, sleeved all I/O cables
Audio Device(s)	onboard
Power Supply	Corsair HX750W modular, sadly only stock sleeving
Software	Win 7 64bit

MRCLs first contact with water

MRCL

kyle2020

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technicks

kyle2020

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MRCL

technicks

MRCL

h3llb3nd4

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MRCL

crtecha

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MRCL

h3llb3nd4

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phanbuey

h3llb3nd4

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crtecha

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MRCL

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Sadasius

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crtecha

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MRCL

h3llb3nd4

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Sadasius

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MRCL

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