lapped my IHS on a Q6600 (pics and results)

nflesher87 · Aug 22, 2007

average.. said:
i would give it a go if it did not take me the best part of an hour to attach my freezer64 pro. im not going thru that again, lol
i was certain i cracked the cpu die, the mother bored disconnected some capcitors.. the shock of my life when it actually powerd up.. maybe i will do my gpu's heatsink thats just a couple push clips.. oh and my MB's heat sink... will make a lapper out of me yet.. ;-)

lol I'll agree AMD HSFs are a biatch to get on at times, but if you just take it easy and make sure every part is where it needs to be, after having a few frustrating times of putting one on I just took my time and didn't get frustrated and it wasn't all that bad

graysky · Aug 22, 2007

Yeah, I remember how tough it was to get the damn thing on and off my XP3200+... it takes some finesse with a screw driver and a lot of downward pressure as I recall.

AsRock · Aug 22, 2007

d44ve said:
That is still scary with that many scratches still in it

As he said it's because he used a good camera. My Pentax does it to there great for the extra detail.

Mussels · Sep 12, 2007

I've got my Q6600 and an ultra 120 extreme now. Considering lapping cause my core temps are upto 10C apart - the first two cores might load at 70C, while the 3rd and 4th load at 62C

Right now i'm idling at 46\45\38\42 - you think this is a good indication of a concave spreader?

best sandpaper i can get is 1600 grit, which i think is just peachy for making a nice fine lapping, if you think thats going to solve my problem.

sneekypeet · Sep 12, 2007

Mussels said:
I've got my Q6600 and an ultra 120 extreme now. Considering lapping cause my core temps are upto 10C apart - the first two cores might load at 70C, while the 3rd and 4th load at 62C

Right now i'm idling at 46\45\38\42 - you think this is a good indication of a concave spreader?

best sandpaper i can get is 1600 grit, which i think is just peachy for making a nice fine lapping, if you think thats going to solve my problem.

you can always check its "flatness" with a new razorblade on edge and put a light behind it. If there is a gap between the two where light gets through then it has issues. I check mine corner from corner(X), and middle to middle(+). Also helps determine what grit paper to start with. The more light you see the lower(say 600) grit you start with. If you cant see light starting with higher(1000-1200) grit is recommended, because lower grit will only put deeper scratches you have to spend more time removing! :toast:

Mussels · Sep 12, 2007

sneekypeet said:
you can always check its "flatness" with a new razorblade on edge and put a light behind it. If there is a gap between the two where light gets through then it has issues. I check mine corner from corner(X), and middle to middle(+). Also helps determine what grit paper to start with. The more light you see the lower(say 600) grit you start with. If you cant see light starting with higher(1000-1200) grit is recommended, because lower grit will only put deeper scratches you have to spend more time removing!

i got 400, 800, and 2000 grit

i'll do thje razor test after work, thanks for the + / x advice

sneekypeet · Sep 12, 2007

I would suggest a grade between the 800 and 2000 its gonna save you alot of work if you do,also your shoulder and forearm. Maybe a 1200 or 1400 grit.

Personally I use 600 if flatness is way off to start, then 800>>>1200>>>1600 then finish it off with 2000 grit. Its all up to you ! Also I do finnish with an automotive polish called neverdull, then a hit with 90% alcohol.

graysky · Sep 12, 2007

@mussels - be sure you do your heatsink as well. You don't need anything over 1000 grit really. Remember you don't care if it's reflective, just that both surfaces are flat.

Mussels · Sep 12, 2007

graysky said:
@mussels - be sure you do your heatsink as well. You don't need anything over 1000 grit really. Remember you don't care if it's reflective, just that both surfaces are flat.

yeah, its just that reflective/shiny looks purdy in pics

not too sure on the ultra 120, my brother did his and his heatsink started corroding on the exposed copper - he DOES literally live on the beach, but it is still concerning me.

graysky · Sep 12, 2007

Hmmm... dunno what to say about that. I haven't seen lapped copper corrode, but I don't live near an ocean

Mussels · Sep 13, 2007

thats what i wanted to hear, i'm not on the ocean either, far inland. but he's definately less than 5Km from the water itself, and the air is quite salty.

but ok, next chance i get i'll see how flat the CPU and heatsink are, and i'll have a go at them (hopefully its the heatsink, i would like to keep my CPU's warranty if possible)

Mussels · Sep 14, 2007

new post cause i'm evil - lapping it now

it was very concave (lower in the middle) just like the OP's, the copper is showing on the edges a lot sooner than in the middle.

Edit: done CPU only, heatsink will wait for another day.

idle 39-39-32-34

OCCT (quad threaded version)
load - 67-67-61-61

This is a lot better, as previously it was more of a 10C spread.
I assume lapping the heatsink next, will fix that and make me a happy camper

[I.R.A]_FBi · Sep 14, 2007

well .. today i got em one sheet of 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200 1500 and 2000

FR@NK · Sep 14, 2007

graysky said:
I finished the job and put a mild shine on it with a sheet of 1000 grit I got from the local auto parts store just for the f*ck of it.

Switched to 1000 grit, here's the result:

You guys might refer to this article:

http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/cooling/air/39

W1zzard said:
[SUBHEADING]Do I want a mirror finish?[/SUBHEADING]
If you start lapping your surface beyond the 600 grit range your gaps in the heatsink will be very small. Thus you MUST apply a very very small amount of thermal paste for proper thermal transfer. In most cases where you have a mirror finish your final result will be like this:

There's no contact between the two metals because of excess thermal paste. The heat transfer of this is worse than with a surface that is only 600 grit because of the boundary layer of TIM between heatsink and CPU.

[SUBHEADING]From Cathar:[/SUBHEADING]
I highly recommend that on the final grit you will use (either 600 or 800)....

Mussels · Sep 14, 2007

i edited my post, i guess you guys snuck in while i was doing that

so check up to see my temps... really think the heatsink is messing the temps up now.

i'm bored enough that i'm going to attack the heatsink now too. new results in an hour or so

Scrizz · Sep 14, 2007

Mussels said:
i edited my post, i guess you guys snuck in while i was doing that so check up to see my temps... really think the heatsink is messing the temps up now.

i'm bored enough that i'm going to attack the heatsink now too. new results in an hour or so

Results yet?

Mussels · Sep 14, 2007

Scrizz said:
Results yet?

got work in 30m, so i cant finish - more or less, it was EXTREMELY convex, pushing out towards the middle. this sucked balls, as kentsfields have the two dual cores slightly to each side - thats why two of my cores always ran hotter.

I'm getting ready for work now, but i'll finish it when i get off in 8 hours.

the blade test wasnt showing gaps, it was see-sawing in order to meet th corners (have it touch one corner, and to meet the other you literally had to see-saw it to the other side... at least a 1mm gap on the raised corner)

graysky · Sep 14, 2007

Mussels said:
new post cause i'm evil - lapping it now it was very concave (lower in the middle) just like the OP's, the copper is showing on the edges a lot sooner than in the middle.

Edit: done CPU only, heatsink will wait for another day.

idle 39-39-32-34

OCCT (quad threaded version)
load - 67-67-61-61

This is a lot better, as previously it was more of a 10C spread.
I assume lapping the heatsink next, will fix that and make me a happy camper

Dude, 67-67-61-61 AFTER lapping the CPU only? What where your before temps out of OCCT? Also, what CPU settings and vcore are you using and were they held constant?

Mussels · Sep 14, 2007

graysky said:
Dude, 67-67-61-61 AFTER lapping the CPU only? What where your before temps out of OCCT? Also, what CPU settings and vcore are you using and were they held constant?

3.6GHz 1.425v - it was around 70C prior to lapping, thusly why i attacked the heatsink

new idles - 34-34-26-27

new loads - 60-60-51-51

god damn it, still 10C apart...

board has a solid in-built vdroop mod, so its not that. and this grease IS fresh AS ceramique, it will get better over time.

Its being retarded, the temps are 63C one second, then 66C, then back to 58C for a while... i think OCCT is just shit? what are you using to load the CPU?

Edit:
eventually its settle to 67-67-56-56
Not sure whats going on with it, but its irritating me.

with the case fan turned up a bit, i now have

63-63-51-52, better temps, but still 10C apart

yeeet another edit.
i was pretty sure i had the heatsink a lot flatter than stock, but i DID forget to do a flatness test on the CPU. its 3am now and i have a lan in 10 hours, so i'll finish it off early next week.

Mussels · Sep 15, 2007

new post because of pics. heres the CPU after i was done with it.

the second image shows as i was lapping it, that some areas went away a lot faster - the silver colored areas are the parts that were lower, therefore they got lapped last. Pretty damned uneven.

final edit:
i saw this

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=229063

read down lower, and they say removing the mobos retention clip for the CPU can lower temps a lot. this could be why my temps are uneven even after lapping!

[I.R.A]_FBi · Sep 15, 2007

i founf out today my chip or heatsink is uneven ... teh paste was in teh middle only .... ill get a razor and redo it if after AS5 burn in i dont liek teh temps

leave it under 3 days of folding

Mussels · Sep 16, 2007

[I.R.A]_FBi said:
i founf out today my chip or heatsink is uneven ... teh paste was in teh middle only .... ill get a razor and redo it if after AS5 burn in i dont liek teh temps

leave it under 3 days of folding

checked if your retention thing is bent, like in the link i posted? thats my next investigation.

Mussels · Sep 28, 2007

update: my retention clip WAS TOTALLY SCREWED, its nowhere neat flat at all.

After removing it and (VERY) carefully attaching my heatsink, i now have load temps of

62-62-54-54

Still uneven (cores dont match) but almost 10C lower - the old temps managed this at first, but it didnt last long. this time around the temps are stable at these levels.

for reference i'm using OCCT and i stated the highest temp each core gets, its varying a bit, and sometimes drops down to 58-58-51-51

KennyT772 · Sep 28, 2007

You will never get the two die's at the same temp. Every chip has a different power envelope and heat output for one, and pressure and thermal paste will never be perfectly even. I would suggest putting a dab of thermal paste on the ihs and heatsink, then smoothing it out with your finger in a plastic bag. try to get it where there is only a very very thin layer on there. If you do that on the cpu and heatsink you should fill in almost all gaps in sanding without making the thermal paste too thick.

Coolyou · Oct 14, 2008

Your best bet for Sandpaper is:
UnitedAuto B&M

or

http://www.nortonautomotive.com/

most I would go is 1200 grit. no need for ooohhhh shinys, unless you've a troll!

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lapped my IHS on a Q6600 (pics and results)

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