RBE - General information and discussion

ok.... reflashed.... works... but... same problem. memspeed is locked. what now?

I can't wrap my head around why the mem would be locked....

So you'll adjust the slider, then when you click "Apply" it snaps back to default?

I think that some of the RBE setting don't stick. I've tried to change the subsystem ID's on several bios, but I keep getting a "subsystem mismatch" when I try to flash my card.

it wont slide at all.

fitseries3 said:

ok.... reflashed.... works... but... same problem. memspeed is locked. what now?

Click to expand...

Did you tried to reinstall your VGA drivers ?

Paulieg said:

I think that some of the RBE setting don't stick. I've tried to change the subsystem ID's on several bios, but I keep getting a "subsystem mismatch" when I try to flash my card.

Click to expand...

Try an older version of ATIwinflash (v2.0.0.2). I fixed on this why the subsystem mismatch and could flash without a problem (correction without forcing ) a Sapphire HD3870 Atomic bios in my Sapphire HD3870 Build By ATI.

Powerplay Issue?

Can this issue be fixed by modifying the BIOS of an HD 3850? When I play a game like NFS ProStreet, I experience poor performance. When I checked Rivatuner, GPU usage is only about 30%! The clocks are fine, not lowering down to 2D clocks, but the GPU usage is still very low it affects the performance!



The graph above was taken while playing NFS Prostreet. The part there where the GPU usage is almost at 100% is when I was at the game menus. But when it's in the actual game, the actual race, the GPU usage goes down to only 30-40%. The part there where there is almost no GPU usage is when I pressed CTRL+TAB to check Rivatuner. I also experience it in Assassin's Creed, and other games too, even at the lowest possible setting and resolution.

Can it be fixed by modifying the BIOS? Thanks in advance for your replies...

What power supply are you using? It may be "stuck" in low power 3d mode. Hmmmm ....

@JrRacinFan

Thanks for the reply. I'm using a HEC Winpower 550W PSU. It might not be popular in your place, but I can say it's a reputable one.

Yeah, it's not too too bad a psu. It was one of my pondering moments to ask 'tis all.

Figured I may as well ask, since 75% of problems with gaming rigs are psu related.

I will try another PSU this coming weekend just to be sure... TY

the newest RBE cant work with my sapphire hd3650 gddr3 256mb.. rbe can load the bios, can modif the bios and save the edited bios, and the atiflash can update the vga, but after restart the system, the windows cant identify the vga.. but still work with rbe 1.09 with no problemo at all..

gamalrizaldi said:

the newest RBE cant work with my sapphire hd3650 gddr3 256mb.. rbe can load the bios, can modif the bios and save the edited bios, and the atiflash can update the vga, but after restart the system, the windows cant identify the vga.. but still work with rbe 1.09 with no problemo at all..

Click to expand...

Did you uninstall and reinstall your drivers?

BAGZZlash said:

ATI uses three device IDs for denoting 3600 series video cards. RBE writes just one of them to the file. So listen to Frankyboy, reinstalling the driver should solve the problem. Please tell me, if it does, because if not, I will have to change the internal device ID handling in RBE.

Click to expand...

I was getting that exact same problem when I was flashing my HD 3650, too -- thought something was wrong so I eventually just flashed it back to the original bios with atiflash.

So, reinstalling the drivers will do it? I'll definitely try that later today -- by the way, thanks for making such a wonderful and easy to use program! Good UI is such a forgotten thing when people usually make modding programs.

By the way, whose lips are those in the "about" picture?

Alright I can tell and show you that the volt changes do WORK. (For Me)

Default 1.0 on 2D Clock States


Changed to 1.1 on 2D Clock States


I've gotten up to 1.2, don't know if I should go any higher, Since i'm only on stocking cooling. But with 1.2 XP Pro wouldn't load up, just keeps restarting. But with Vista it's fine.

Hello everybody!

I'm writing about my GeCube ATI HD 2400 PRO AGP 512MB, which I purchaced 2 months ago. I upgraded my Asus Terminator P4 533A (initally purcheased barebone system in 2003). The hardware in the system is a P4 2.4GHz, 1GB DDR RAM, onboard sound. The AGP slot is up to 4x, while the VGA card is up to 8x, but nobody is perfect!

The problem was the video card's fan that was making some noticeable noise while the rest of the fan on CPU and case work only when temperatures rise. ATI's fan was working constantly, with no reduction in its speed.

I though I'd use RBE and modify ATI's fan settings in the card's BIOS, so the fan will work in lower speeds. But I wasn't able to find info about the fan controller in HD 2400PRO and if it really can regulate the fan speed.

So I though to unplug/disable the fan that was attached on the heatsink of HD 2400 PRO and let it cool passively using just the heatsink.

Of course there was no noise any more coming from the ATI video card and my system was once more silent as it used to.

I noticed though a slight increase in the GPU Temperature of about 10degrees C. When the fan was working the GPU had a temp at idle mode of 49-62 degrees C. When I disabled the fan the GPU in idle mode had a temp of 61-69 degrees C. Moreover I tried to stress the GPU to see how it is affected to the temperature without any fan help-just the heatsink.

I worked the GPU at 92-98% for about 40minutes constantly and the rising of the temp was about +5degrees C. Most of the time video card's temp was 69-71degrees C and for sometimes I saw it to reach 80-81degrees C and then back again to 69-71C for the rest of the time.

Now what I would like to ask you all is your opinion about this method. The attached heatsink is quite large (covers the half of card's PCB) so I think that disabling the fan won't make any major difference, or am I wrong??? About the rise of the temps: are those values acceptable for idle mode, or this maybe damage my card real soon?

Waiting for your wise comments...

@chenakos
You need some airflow. I suggest that you cut off the power connector of your gpu fan and connect it directly to a powermolex.

You have a few option:
The black wire must always be in one of the black connectors except for the Yellow/Red combination. There you must connect red(fan) with yellow(molex) and black(fan) with red(molex). I think the best combination for you is Yellow/Red. Its quiet and it is still cooling enough. I did this with my Arctic ATI Silencer 4. It was too noisy at full speed.

VuurVOS said:

@chenakos
You need some airflow. I suggest that you cut off the power connector of your gpu fan and connect it directly to a powermolex.

You have a few option:

Code:

Yellow(12volt)  Black(ground)  Black(ground)  Red(5volt)  Fan speed
        x             x                                   100%
        x                           x                     100%
                      x                           x       less than 50%
                                    x             x       less than 50%
        x                                         x       around 70%

The black wire must always be in one of the black connectors except for the Yellow/Red combination. There you must connect red(fan) with yellow(molex) and black(fan) with red(molex). I think the best combination for you is Yellow/Red. Its quiet and it is still cooling enough. I did this with my Arctic ATI Silencer 4. It was too noisy at full speed.

Click to expand...

I see what you suggesting here VuurVOS. Instead of powering the fan with 12Volts, giving it a 7Volts power so that it rans in lower speeds. That is a nice trick and I will definetely try it, although I am also thinking to try the Black/Red combination so I will set the fan ran even lower.

With some easy maths I found that the Yellow/Red combination turns the fan at 58%, while the Black/Red combination rans it at 41%.

The issue here is silence, so 41% is better than nothing. The thing is if 41% still adds up a the notisable noise to the overall system noise (which is fairly low though).

On the other hand, I still don't know if these 80degrees C that I saw the GPU reaching in full load are harmful to the GPU, or they are an acceptable temperature value between working conditions?

But again, hotter days are coming this Summer so increased ambient temperature always adds up some extra degrees C..

BAGZZlash said:

Why don't you just go ahead and try it out?

Click to expand...

I actually did tried it out with no success. At the end of the BIOS flashing work it gave me an error message and it stopped there... Maybe it had to do something with the "1" index I wrote at the flashing command in DOS mode - but that was the index I initially used to backup my original BIOS .

So now I am trying other solutions.

BAGZZlash said:

Nice posting, as always. Thanked you deputyly.

Click to expand...

Deputy is reporting SIR I am always trying to do my best

VuurVOS said:

@chenakos
You need some airflow. I suggest that you cut off the power connector of your gpu fan and connect it directly to a powermolex.

You have a few option:

Code:

Yellow(12volt)  Black(ground)  Black(ground)  Red(5volt)  Fan speed
        x             x                                   100%
        x                           x                     100%
                      x                           x       less than 50%
                                    x             x       less than 50%
        x                                         x       around 70%

The black wire must always be in one of the black connectors except for the Yellow/Red combination. There you must connect red(fan) with yellow(molex) and black(fan) with red(molex). I think the best combination for you is Yellow/Red. Its quiet and it is still cooling enough. I did this with my Arctic ATI Silencer 4. It was too noisy at full speed.

Click to expand...

Done it! I used the Red/Black combination and now the fan works in lower speeds of course, while not making any noise at all! Temperatures are as when I first installed the card in my pc.

I think that GeCube should do this from the begining as there's no need for this card to have its fan running at 100% to keep it cool! Practice showed that when fan works in lower speeds cools GPU same as when it runs at full speed. Plus the card becomes noise-less.

Many thanks VuurVOS!

People having same kind of problem, first try this and then everything else.

Hi all,

I modded my HD2600Pro AGP with Artic Cooling Accelero S1 V2 + Turbo Module.

Link: http://www.arctic-cooling.com/vga2.php?idx=147

Temp is arround 35° C idle and arround 38° C load.
All seems running well so far, my question is now, does the Fan Settings in Bios corrupt the Card timings if there is no GPU Fan Attached ?
or can I disable the fan function at all ?

Coz sometimes the game just stops in single colored screen. could be a driver prob
in Bioshock, Crysis i play over hours and COD MW just blows after level loaded

Fan from Turbo module is connected to 3Pin Molex > PSU and not on GPU onboard fan connector

thx

n0tiert

n0tiert said:

Hi all,
Coz sometimes the game just stops in single colored screen. could be a driver prob
in Bioshock, Crysis i play over hours and COD MW just blows after level loaded

Click to expand...

Which COD do you play? If it is COD4, it can be a drivers issue. I also have that problem when crossfire is activated.