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High Temps on Scythe Mugen

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Basically I've got my CPU at 2.7GHz atm from 2.4 just as a test, and Real Temp reports 48 Celcius

Correct me if I'm wrong but that's a god awful temperature for one of these beasty coolers, I installed with AS5 and the temps are the same as the stock Intel cooler, what gives :|

And yes it's seated properly, all 4 pins clicked
 

streetfighter 2

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I assume you mean 48C load right?

That is pretty bad (if it's idle then it's catastrophic). Use too much thermal paste? Use too little? Malfunctioning thermal sensor?
 
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That is idle yes, load was 60C

I applied it in the same way I always do, a small rice sized dot in the middle of the CPU

Anyways, I reseated it just to check but in doing so my motherboard died, so I don't have a computer right now...

I'm getting it RMA'd on Monday, cos I don't actually know what caused it. But the power button doesn't function now, and any graphics card I put in it doesn't give a display. And the onboard speaker doesn't beep anymore. It's just f*****

But regardless, I still don't get how my temps were so bad.... I did a sensor test with RealTemp and it didn't report any errors or anything
 

Bo$$

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thats fine, lol these are 65nm processors not 45nm i get 65 load on mine with a big heatsink with MX-2

remove cmos battery for 30mins, put it back in, enjoy..
 
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why would it be cmos when i didn't change any settings? all i did was installnew cooler
 
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MikeTyson, 48c is not high, 60c load is not high either, presuming you are overclocking I would actually go as far as saying that its pretty good.


There is only so much that a air cooler can do, usually a huge limitation is the type of case you are using, some cases just do not offer enough ventilation to extract heat and insert enough cool air. As a result the case temp encapsulates the bad air and the pressure within the case in turn will increase the CPU/GPU temps, and in turn the CPU/GPU temps will also rise as a consequence.

Also,

why would it be cmos when i didn't change any settings? all i did was installnew cooler

Its unlikely to break anything from removing the heatsink, the chances are when you re-attached the heatsink it wasnt on correctly or there was a small gap which you couldnt visually identify, some motherboards throw a fit if it "thinks" the heatsink isnt attached and hence will not boot up as a result. My advice will be to keep reattaching the heatsink until the motherboard is satistified that its on! - There is probably no physical defect with your equipment.

Sometimes if you remove the CPU or heatsink, some motherboards will automatically reset the bios to safety configuration. The safety configurations might disable your PCI-E card and re-enable your onboard automatically and without warning. I would take out the PCI-E video card and try to boot fromt he onboard, if you are successful turn off the onboard and turn on the PCI-E card, then insert the dedicated video card back in!
 
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I dont have a case, it's all open in the air on my desk :)

I've set my board back for RMA now, so we'll see what happens

It's very much broken if the power button doesnt even work, and it wasnt just the buttomn cos I tried different buttomns
 
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Well I'm getting the board back from RMA today, they reported "No Fault Found" but I'm installing my shit in a case now instead so that there's less stress on the mobo when I mount a cooler... probs didn't enjoy me pressing down really hard on it to get the pins to click... will update later when it arrives ^_^

Just a quick P.S. anybody have a preferred method of applying AS5 to a CPU?
 
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Why not try adding another fan, they perform better in a push pull config. Otherwise, something must have been done wrong cause these are one of top dogs afaik. Anyways, the scythe base is flat, you can simply put a lil grain of rice. Everyone has his methods though, so just experience till you are happy.
 
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The grain of rice method works great for coolers with no HDT, and intel core processors. Also make sure you are not pushing too much voltage through the processor. That may be why you have high temps.
 
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Well I've reinstalled and now RealTemp reports about 44C idle on both cores... I guess obviously AS5 has a burn-in period of 200 hours too but still, these temps are really kinda sucky...

Any suggestions? I've reinstalled no end of times now, I'll get a pic up of my setup tomorrow I think, but everything is how it should be.

My GTX 460 is idling about 28C which is nice, it's just annoying that my CPU can't be cool too :( Otherwise my hopes of overclocking to get the most out of this card have gone out the window :/
 
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*sigh* Correction, idle 51C
 
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is this the original Mugen or the Mugen II?
 
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OK. IDK about the mounting system on the original, but the Mugen II has PITA mounting system that is tricky to master without leaving gaps in the TIM. Try and try again is all I can say.

Edit: Your mounting system is different. So IDK about that.
 
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Hmm guess I'm buying a new cooler.

So far I can see the Arctic Freezer 7 Pro as best value for money

Any responses?
 
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Dont buy it, its crap. Whats your budget? Xigmatek has some really good coolers.
 
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I guess about £25
 
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don't mean to sound rude, but when you read it does it say temp to tj max on it?
 
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Sounds like you possibly bent the motherboard too much while mounting the Mugen. I had a Scythe Infinity that would bend the heck out of motherboards. Poor design and it could use a backplate or something
 
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Nah the temp to TJ max is different, I know that :p

And yea, this is really hard to mount without applying a great deal of pressure :/

But I might as well just get another cooler... so any suggestions?
 

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for me the theermaltake frio is going pretty awsome and on 4.0v and 4Ghz the max LOAD temp is 50 on the amd cpu and costs about 59.99
 
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Cooler Master Hyper 212+... or a Xigmatek R1283. The Xiggy mounts very easily with the backplate, you just screw it in and it's foolproof.
 
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Actually having looked up some reviews for the HDT-S1283 (Xigmatek) it looks amazing, definitely a worthwhile purchase... I'm gonna get it because of the backplate, like you say it's fool proof, and backplates should be a must for ALL coolers... otherwise you can never be sure of a flush match to the CPU heatspreader
 

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Actually having looked up some reviews for the HDT-S1283 (Xigmatek) it looks amazing, definitely a worthwhile purchase... I'm gonna get it because of the backplate, like you say it's fool proof, and backplates should be a must for ALL coolers... otherwise you can never be sure of a flush match to the CPU heatspreader

the s1283 and r1283 are alittle different...
but should have about the same performance
 
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