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- Aug 12, 2006
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- 3,278 (0.48/day)
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- UK-small Village in a Valley Near Newcastle
Processor | I9 9900KS @ 5.3Ghz |
---|---|
Motherboard | Gagabyte z390 Aorus Ultra |
Cooling | Nexxxos Nova 1080 + 360 rad |
Memory | 32Gb Crucial Balliastix RGB 4.4GHz |
Video Card(s) | MSI Gaming X Trio RTX 3090 (Bios and Shunt Modded) 2.17GHz @ 38C |
Storage | NVME / SSD RAID arrays |
Display(s) | 38" LG 38GN950-B, 27" BENQ XL2730Z 144hz 1440p, Samsung 27" 3D 1440p |
Case | Thermaltake Core series |
Power Supply | 1.6Kw Silverstone |
Mouse | Roccat Kone EMP |
Keyboard | Corsair Viper Mechanical |
Software | Windows 10 Pro |
Hi all! well, getting a bit annoyed at the crappy stepping on my 185 opty and resulting temperatures, i decided to remove the Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS) and fix the peltier waterblock directly to the die's durface.
Right, First of all i cleared my desk and got a decent work surface, then I collected the tools to butcher my cpu into submission
Razer blades removed from shaving razors, to be used to cut around the IHS cap glue, a stanly knife for popping the cap off at the end of the process, solvent for cleaning off the thermal gunk, black foam pad for protecting the CPU's pins, Coollabs Liquid Metal thermal compound and cotton swabs for spreading this on the Silicone Die.
Below pic shows the recently extracted Opteron 185 CPU still coated with liquid pro
Here is a close up of the cleaned CPU showing the stepping as LCBBE
I started by taking the shaving razors and cutting into each othe the processors corners, using gentle rocking motions, carefully feeling for any internal component contact. I then used the razors corner to slice along the sides on the IHS. I also used a cotton swab to add some solvent to help loosed the glue holding the IHS onto the pcb. After going around the CPU as best i could,I used the stanly knife to wedge along the length of the cpu and prise open the cap
Here is the processor without the IHS attached. You can clearly see the thermal gunk on the die, I also noted how heavy the IHS was, and how thick it was, a good 3mm of solid metal. Ouch.
Heres a close up of the CPU die all nice and shiny after a jolly good cleaning using solvent and swabs
And finally, here it is again, but with the liquid metal applied to the die
I had to slightly modify the cpu retention bracked to accomodate for the 3mm gap after IHS removal. But booted to windows at stock frequencies to my relief, it appears to have worked!! Phew!
Now my plan is to test against previous overclock tests and see how much (if any) I have knocked off the peak temperatures.
Yeay for not killing my CPU
I will update as I find out how well this has worked for overclocking

Right, First of all i cleared my desk and got a decent work surface, then I collected the tools to butcher my cpu into submission

Razer blades removed from shaving razors, to be used to cut around the IHS cap glue, a stanly knife for popping the cap off at the end of the process, solvent for cleaning off the thermal gunk, black foam pad for protecting the CPU's pins, Coollabs Liquid Metal thermal compound and cotton swabs for spreading this on the Silicone Die.

Below pic shows the recently extracted Opteron 185 CPU still coated with liquid pro

Here is a close up of the cleaned CPU showing the stepping as LCBBE

I started by taking the shaving razors and cutting into each othe the processors corners, using gentle rocking motions, carefully feeling for any internal component contact. I then used the razors corner to slice along the sides on the IHS. I also used a cotton swab to add some solvent to help loosed the glue holding the IHS onto the pcb. After going around the CPU as best i could,I used the stanly knife to wedge along the length of the cpu and prise open the cap

Here is the processor without the IHS attached. You can clearly see the thermal gunk on the die, I also noted how heavy the IHS was, and how thick it was, a good 3mm of solid metal. Ouch.

Heres a close up of the CPU die all nice and shiny after a jolly good cleaning using solvent and swabs

And finally, here it is again, but with the liquid metal applied to the die


I had to slightly modify the cpu retention bracked to accomodate for the 3mm gap after IHS removal. But booted to windows at stock frequencies to my relief, it appears to have worked!! Phew!



Now my plan is to test against previous overclock tests and see how much (if any) I have knocked off the peak temperatures.
Yeay for not killing my CPU

I will update as I find out how well this has worked for overclocking