New Watercooling Setup - Does this look right?

dadi_oh · Apr 8, 2008

Received my Swiftech H20-220 system yesterday and set it up. It seems to have a "leak" around the water outlet on the pump. It basically develops a green droplet over a few minutes which travels around the circumference of the plastic piece and then stabilizes. The water tension seems to be enough to keep it from developing into a droplet. Odd. But back it goes to the store for RMA I guess. Seems to be a bad ultrasonic weld. See attached closeup. Hopefully they can do a cross ship of just the pump since it took me a few hours to get the whole thing together before leak testing it :shadedshu

Well, decided to attach it and do a few benchmarks just to see what would happen (since it wasn't dripping). I am currently running an E2180 OC to 380X8 (3GHz). The first screen shot is the same setup running on my OCZ Vendetta at about 51C on the cores and the Vendetta fan on high. The same setting with the H20-220 yields 47C on the cores with the rad fans on high and 50C with the fans on 60% (controlled by BIOS). Now I know I can stabilize things longer to get more accurate measurements but this is telling me that the water cooling is giving me about the same performance as my OCZ Vendetta? Albeit much quieter (with the fans at 60% I can barely make them out under my desk).

Does this seem about right? Have I just traded sound levels to get same temps?

INSTG8R · Apr 8, 2008

Yeah its definitely a bad join there. I mean the easy solution would be a bit of Silicone Seal. But that the kinda thing I would do(and did do with my previous units pump) I just couldnt be arsed to take it all apart again and send it in(in the end I did end up replacing the pump but whatever)

erocker · Apr 8, 2008

The clamp deffinitely isn't on straight!

philbrown23 · Apr 8, 2008

those pumps leak, i had the same problem with the same system and have mentioned it numerous times on here.

dadi_oh · Apr 8, 2008

erocker said:
The clamp deffinitely isn't on straight!

But the leak isn't from the clamp seal. It is between the hard plastic body and the barb body. The clamp seal isn't the issue.

Megasty · Apr 8, 2008

Swiftech make great pumps but I don't intend to put anything in my system w/o reinforcing the seals with a silicone agent first. I never had to rma any of their products either. That Apogee Drive is a nice design but the plastic barb parts is an obvious failure point. I couldn't even try to use it w/o resealing it myself; I trust my seals much more than a mass produced product's seal.

dadi_oh · Apr 8, 2008

philbrown23 said:
those pumps leak, i had the same problem with the same system and have mentioned it numerous times on here.

So if I go through all the trouble of taking it apart, sending it in, waiting for replacement... I could just end up with the same issue? aaargh.

Maybe I should just fix it myself. What's adheres well to that hard plastic and can provide a seal? Not sure if silicon based would be a good choice. Maybe some sort of epoxy?

dadi_oh · Apr 8, 2008

Megasty said:
Swiftech make great pumps but I don't intend to put anything in my system w/o reinforcing the seals with a silicone agent first. I never had to rma any of their products either. That Apogee Drive is a nice design but the plastic barb parts is an obvious failure point. I couldn't even try to use it w/o resealing it myself; I trust my seals much more than a mass produced product's seal.

So what do you recommend as a sealant?

Thanks

dadi_oh · Apr 8, 2008

erocker said:
The clamp deffinitely isn't on straight!

I had another look at my other pics (I just provided one zoomed in sample) and the part of the clip that makes contact with the exterior of the neoprene is 100% straight (i.e. orthogonal to the axis of the tube). What is misleading is that the top of the clip that ratchets together can move one way or the other but still gripping the corresponding piece. It just moved that way as part of the squeezing process from my needlenose pliers.

So the business end of the clamp (the bit that grips the tube) is straight. I could straighten the ratched end by sliding it over in alignment with the body but it won't change the seal.

Thanks though. Good eyes

erocker · Apr 8, 2008

You should RMA it an profess to them to please check it for leaks before sending it back to you.

dadi_oh · Apr 8, 2008

erocker said:
You should RMA it an profess to them to please check it for leaks before sending it back to you.

Yeah I "could" do that but my confidence that they would have the facilities or the desire to test it first is very very low.

Considering the trouble to do all of this and given the minor nature of the leak I might just seal it myself. Still looking for sealant recommendations.

Megasty · Apr 8, 2008

erocker said:
You should RMA it an profess to them to please check it for leaks before sending it back to you.

Yeah, that thing shouldn't leak at all. That simply means that water is getting through the area where the barb is embedded into the pump housing. I just reinforce it with silicone to relieve some of the stress on the seal - its a piece of mind thing. Trying to fix that mess yourself won't work unless you weld the two pieces of plastic together which is a last resort if you can no longer rma it. Anyway I use Loctite Stik’n Seal for silicone but for that you'll have to use Loctite Plastix Bonder. It'll seal that fitting up in no time but I would rma it first unless you just don't want to go through the trouble.

dadi_oh · Apr 8, 2008

Megasty said:
Yeah, that thing shouldn't leak at all. That simply means that water is getting through the area where the barb is embedded into the pump housing. I just reinforce it with silicone to relieve some of the stress on the seal - its a piece of mind thing. Trying to fix that mess yourself won't work unless you weld the two pieces of plastic together which is a last resort if you can no longer rma it. Anyway I use Loctite Stik’n Seal for silicone but for that you'll have to use Loctite Plastix Bonder. It'll seal that fitting up in no time but I would rma it first unless you just don't want to go through the trouble.

Yeah this is mostly a convenience thing. I haven't heard back from the online store yet. I offered to purchase a new one of the pumps, have them send it to me (at their cost) and then I will return this pump (since I don't want to tear this whole thing apart). When they get the defective pump back then they can just credit me for the replacement pump. Seems reasonable to me but if they insist on me tearing this thing apart or sending the pump back before they will replace it then I will probably not bother.

I just thought of something else. The glue that is used an ABS plumbing fittings would probably work as well. hmmmm...

dadi_oh · Apr 8, 2008

dadi_oh said:
Received my Swiftech H20-220 system yesterday and set it up. It seems to have a "leak" around the water outlet on the pump. It basically develops a green droplet over a few minutes which travels around the circumference of the plastic piece and then stabilizes. The water tension seems to be enough to keep it from developing into a droplet. Odd. But back it goes to the store for RMA I guess. Seems to be a bad ultrasonic weld. See attached closeup. Hopefully they can do a cross ship of just the pump since it took me a few hours to get the whole thing together before leak testing it :shadedshu

Well, decided to attach it and do a few benchmarks just to see what would happen (since it wasn't dripping). I am currently running an E2180 OC to 380X8 (3GHz). The first screen shot is the same setup running on my OCZ Vendetta at about 51C on the cores and the Vendetta fan on high. The same setting with the H20-220 yields 47C on the cores with the rad fans on high and 50C with the fans on 60% (controlled by BIOS). Now I know I can stabilize things longer to get more accurate measurements but this is telling me that the water cooling is giving me about the same performance as my OCZ Vendetta? Albeit much quieter (with the fans at 60% I can barely make them out under my desk).

Does this seem about right? Have I just traded sound levels to get same temps?

So getting back to the other part of the topic :laugh:

Do these temps look about right for this setup?

I tried briefly to bump my core voltage to 1.45V and see if I could do 380X9 but it failed Prime95 almost immediately. That is only a 3.4GHz OC which most people seem to attain on this chip even on air so I was a little disappointed. I was thinking maybe I need to bump my NB voltage by another notch but I am waiting for the optional ASUS fans to arrive that are supposed to be used for WC setups. My P35 NB is sitting at 61C heatsink temp (measured with an IR probe). Was sitting at less than 40C with the heatsink fan in operation so I don't want to bake my NB... yet....

Megasty · Apr 8, 2008

For 100% load, those temps are great. But that NB needs help & the asus fans moves an unreal amount of air for such a little thing so you should be fine.

MKmods · Apr 8, 2008

do you have a pict showing the side of your comp (makes it easier to help)

erocker has a point in its VERY important to make sure the clamps are square to the hose, also on the barb BEFORE you install the hose make sure there are no casting lines or scratches.

On a few metal barbs I used to slice the hose to take it off easily, I didnt notice I left grooves in the barb so when I reused them I always had small leaks.

One tip on hoses is to put the end in very warm water to make it skide on easily as the bending/twisting of the installing can cause small cracks and leaks as well.

dadi_oh · Apr 9, 2008

MKmods said:
do you have a pict showing the side of your comp (makes it easier to help)

erocker has a point in its VERY important to make sure the clamps are square to the hose, also on the barb BEFORE you install the hose make sure there are no casting lines or scratches.

On a few metal barbs I used to slice the hose to take it off easily, I didnt notice I left grooves in the barb so when I reused them I always had small leaks.

One tip on hoses is to put the end in very warm water to make it skide on easily as the bending/twisting of the installing can cause small cracks and leaks as well.

Well I hadn't heard back from teh store I bought this from so I decided to just fix it myself. Used a little acetone to clean off and rough up the plastic around the seam and then used the plumbers glue that they use on ABS pipes. Worked like a charm. No sign of any coolant,

I took some pics of the case and then forgot to put them on my memory stick (is that ironic ?) Will post them tomorrow if I remember

dadi_oh · Apr 9, 2008

Well I got the leak fixed now and did some more playing around with overclocking. It seems that my E2180 is a poor overclocker. I can hit 380FSB on it but only at 8X multi. If I try to go to 400FSB it won't post. If I try 380FSB and 9X multi it crashes while booting into Windows.

So I grabbed the E2160 that I had recently bought for my other machine (hadn't installed it yet). Popped that in there and it runs fine at 380X9. If I try 400X9 it crashes. Unfortunately the E2160 is limited to a 9X multiplier so I guess I am stuck at 3.4GHz for the moment. I may try increasing the P35 NB core but am waiting for the cooling solution to arrive. My NB heatsink is hitting the high 60's at the moment so I want better cooling before I push it. Hopefully it is not the E2160 that is limiting the FSB. If it is the P35 then I may get around it with voltage increases. There are some other settings in the BIOS that look like they can be pushed. Will do some digging and see what else can be done.

Here is a screenshot.

Watcha think? Reasonable?

asb2106 · Apr 9, 2008

dadi_oh said:
Well I got the leak fixed now and did some more playing around with overclocking. It seems that my E2180 is a poor overclocker. I can hit 380FSB on it but only at 8X multi. If I try to go to 400FSB it won't post. If I try 380FSB and 9X multi it crashes while booting into Windows.

So I grabbed the E2160 that I had recently bought for my other machine (hadn't installed it yet). Popped that in there and it runs fine at 380X9. If I try 400X9 it crashes. Unfortunately the E2160 is limited to a 9X multiplier so I guess I am stuck at 3.4GHz for the moment. I may try increasing the P35 NB core but am waiting for the cooling solution to arrive. My NB heatsink is hitting the high 60's at the moment so I want better cooling before I push it. Hopefully it is not the E2160 that is limiting the FSB. If it is the P35 then I may get around it with voltage increases. There are some other settings in the BIOS that look like they can be pushed. Will do some digging and see what else can be done.

Here is a screenshot.

Watcha think? Reasonable?

I think its your memory that is failing at 400 FSB, you should run your memory at 1:1 with a 400FSB. Maybe boost your NB voltage too

dadi_oh · Apr 9, 2008

asb2106 said:
I think its your memory that is failing at 400 FSB, you should run your memory at 1:1 with a 400FSB. Maybe boost your NB voltage too

Oops. Should have mentioned this. My memory is OCZ PC-8800 which seems to be happy running at 1140MHz at 5-6-6-15-2T @ 2.4V. When I go to 400FSB the divider takes me to 1200MHz so I drop it down one notch. Can't remember the precise value but it is well below 1140MHz.

I have boosted the NB voltage but not to the max yet. That's the next step with some better cooling on it.

I need to update my system specs...

asb2106 · Apr 9, 2008

dadi_oh said:
Oops. Should have mentioned this. My memory is OCZ PC-8800 which seems to be happy running at 1140MHz at 5-6-6-15-2T @ 2.4V. When I go to 400FSB the divider takes me to 1200MHz so I drop it down one notch. Can't remember the precise value but it is well below 1140MHz.

I have boosted the NB voltage but not to the max yet. That's the next step with some better cooling on it.

I need to update my system specs...

yep, I was basin the memory off ur sig. Hmmm i wonder then, I got a 2180 running 3.6 in a cheap gigabyte board, but it took a buttload of volts on the NB to stabilize. I think I would be happy with a 80 dollar proc running at 3.4Ghz though! hehe

dadi_oh · Apr 9, 2008

asb2106 said:
yep, I was basin the memory off ur sig. Hmmm i wonder then, I got a 2180 running 3.6 in a cheap gigabyte board, but it took a buttload of volts on the NB to stabilize. I think I would be happy with a 80 dollar proc running at 3.4Ghz though! hehe

Updated the sig now.

Well I know I "should" be happy but unless I squeeze very last Hertz out of something then I sulk

Actually I am happy. Just want to see how far it will go and then back it off a little so I don't crash in the middle of a firefight...

It's a sickness really. Overclocking to the max for fun and then using it to do spreadsheets...

The best part about the watercooling has actually been the drop in system noise. I like the peace and quiet.

Nitro-Max · Apr 9, 2008

id Silicone Seal it or if its removable try some ptf tape that they use to stop gas leaks.

dadi_oh · Apr 10, 2008

Just a quick update on this. It seems that I have discovered the FSB wall on my E2160 processor. It seems to be somewhere around 380MHz which would be in line with what I have seen around the web. I can boot and run at 380X9. However, if I leave it running for a couple of hours it seems to either blue screen or reset. Increasing Vcore doesn't seem to make a difference. Set it to 370X9 and it ran overnight quite happily.

So I tried bumping down the multi to 6X and was able to get the system to boot to windows with FSB 410. 420 would not post. Tried 7X and was able to get 400FSB. But at 9X can not get it to post at 390FSB. Will boot at 380FSB but seems long term unstable. Seems stable at 370FSB. Tried increasing the voltage on the northbridge to max and same thing so I "think" this is not the motherboard but the processor?

With my E2180 I was able to do 380X8 but not 390X8. Funny thing was it could not do 340X10 so there seemed to be not only a FSB wall but it seemed to also cap out at less than 3.4GHz.

My understanding is that this FSB wall is common with E2xxx series but may not be the case for E4xxx or E6xxx? So I should be happy at 3.3GHz for now and just wait for Q6600 or E8400 prices to drop to my price range I suppose.

I also saw mention of a pin mod on the processor that changes the chip to boot at 1066 FSB rather than 800FSB. Someone implied that doing this increased the achievable FSB. Does that make sense?

:confused:

asb2106 · Apr 10, 2008

dadi_oh said:
Just a quick update on this. It seems that I have discovered the FSB wall on my E2160 processor. It seems to be somewhere around 380MHz which would be in line with what I have seen around the web. I can boot and run at 380X9. However, if I leave it running for a couple of hours it seems to either blue screen or reset. Increasing Vcore doesn't seem to make a difference. Set it to 370X9 and it ran overnight quite happily.

So I tried bumping down the multi to 6X and was able to get the system to boot to windows with FSB 410. 420 would not post. Tried 7X and was able to get 400FSB. But at 9X can not get it to post at 390FSB. Will boot at 380FSB but seems long term unstable. Seems stable at 370FSB. Tried increasing the voltage on the northbridge to max and same thing so I "think" this is not the motherboard but the processor?

With my E2180 I was able to do 380X8 but not 390X8. Funny thing was it could not do 340X10 so there seemed to be not only a FSB wall but it seemed to also cap out at less than 3.4GHz.

My understanding is that this FSB wall is common with E2xxx series but may not be the case for E4xxx or E6xxx? So I should be happy at 3.3GHz for now and just wait for Q6600 or E8400 prices to drop to my price range I suppose.

I also saw mention of a pin mod on the processor that changes the chip to boot at 1066 FSB rather than 800FSB. Someone implied that doing this increased the achievable FSB. Does that make sense?

All that seems just about right...!

I wouldnt wait too much longer for the q6600 to go down much more. Its gonna stick where it is, and then just go away!

Its only 235 bucks on Newegg right now!!!!!!! Thats a deal! I got mine about 5 months ago and paid 325 bucks. I knew they were gonna drop the price when the 45nm parts came out but I just couldnt wait anymore! If I were you Id get it as soon as you can.... I dont see it getting much cheaper, besides maybe used ones on ebay in the next year or two

System Name	Sonny Boy
Processor	i5 11600K 4.9GHz @ 1.35 Vcore
Motherboard	AORUS Z590 Elite AX
Cooling	Deepcool Gammix 240mm AIO
Memory	4 X 8GB Teamgroup DDR4 3200MHz
Video Card(s)	ASUS RTX 3060 Ti GDDR6X
Storage	Adata Legend 1TB
Display(s)	Philips 27" 4K
Power Supply	Corsair 750W
Mouse	Razer Basilisk
Keyboard	Razer Huntsman V2
Software	Windows 11 Pro

System Name	Hellbox 5.1(same case new guts)
Processor	Ryzen 7 5800X3D
Motherboard	MSI X570S MAG Torpedo Max
Cooling	TT Kandalf L.C.S.(Water/Air)EK Velocity CPU Block/Noctua EK Quantum DDC Pump/Res
Memory	2x16GB Gskill Trident Neo Z 3600 CL16
Video Card(s)	Powercolor Hellhound 7900XTX
Storage	970 Evo Plus 500GB 2xSamsung 850 Evo 500GB RAID 0 1TB WD Blue Corsair MP600 Core 2TB
Display(s)	Alienware QD-OLED 34” 3440x1440 144hz 10Bit VESA HDR 400
Case	TT Kandalf L.C.S.
Audio Device(s)	Soundblaster ZX/Logitech Z906 5.1
Power Supply	Seasonic TX~’850 Platinum
Mouse	G502 Hero
Keyboard	G19s
VR HMD	Oculus Quest 2
Software	Win 10 Pro x64

Processor	AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
Motherboard	ASUS TUF x670e
Cooling	EK AIO 360. Phantek T30 fans.
Memory	32GB G.Skill 6000Mhz
Video Card(s)	Asus RTX 4090
Storage	WD m.2
Display(s)	LG C2 Evo OLED 42"
Case	Lian Li PC 011 Dynamic Evo
Audio Device(s)	Topping E70 DAC, SMSL SP200 Headphone Amp.
Power Supply	FSP Hydro Ti PRO 1000W
Mouse	Razer Basilisk V3 Pro
Keyboard	Tester84
Software	Windows 11

System Name	Dominator
Processor	INTEL C2Q Q6600 FTW!!
Motherboard	ASUS P5Q-E!!!
Cooling	TEC cooled cpu, everything else is under water :D
Memory	4GB CELL SHOCK D9GMH 1066MHZ/4GB CRUCIAL REDS
Video Card(s)	4850 (VT)/ 4850 IN CROSSFIRE!
Storage	western digital= 1X 250GB, 1X 500GB, IDE 160GB (BOOT DRIVE ONLY). SEAGATE FREE AGENT 500GB EHDD
Display(s)	viewsonic 19" hd widescreen
Case	ROCKETFISH FOR NOW :(
Audio Device(s)	ONBOARD WORKS JUST FINE FOR ME :p
Power Supply	ULTRA X3 1KW MODULAR
Software	win vista ultimate 64 TWEAKED!!!
Benchmark Scores	http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=434759 3dm06: http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm0

System Name	Sonny Boy
Processor	i5 11600K 4.9GHz @ 1.35 Vcore
Motherboard	AORUS Z590 Elite AX
Cooling	Deepcool Gammix 240mm AIO
Memory	4 X 8GB Teamgroup DDR4 3200MHz
Video Card(s)	ASUS RTX 3060 Ti GDDR6X
Storage	Adata Legend 1TB
Display(s)	Philips 27" 4K
Power Supply	Corsair 750W
Mouse	Razer Basilisk
Keyboard	Razer Huntsman V2
Software	Windows 11 Pro

New Watercooling Setup - Does this look right?

dadi_oh

Attachments

INSTG8R

Vanguard Beta Tester

erocker

*

philbrown23

New Member

dadi_oh

Megasty

New Member

dadi_oh

dadi_oh

dadi_oh

erocker

*

dadi_oh

Megasty

New Member

dadi_oh

dadi_oh

Megasty

New Member

MKmods

Case Mod Guru

dadi_oh

dadi_oh

Attachments

asb2106

dadi_oh

asb2106

dadi_oh

Nitro-Max

dadi_oh

asb2106

Processor	i7 920 @ 3.6 GHz (4.0 when gaming)
Motherboard	Asus Rampage II Extreme - Yeah I Bought It...
Cooling	Swiftech.
Memory	12 GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer - I Love Red
Video Card(s)	ASUS EAH4870X2 - That Fan Is...!?
Storage	4 WD 1.5 TB
Display(s)	24" Sceptre
Case	TT Xaser VI - Fugly, Red, & Huge...
Audio Device(s)	The ASUS Thingy
Power Supply	Ultra X3 1000W
Software	Vista Ultimate SP1 64bit

System Name	Crossflow III
Processor	AMD 965 (4.04Ghz)
Motherboard	Asus Crosshair III
Cooling	Air
Memory	4 gigs Mushkin 7-7-7-20@1T
Video Card(s)	single 9800GT
Storage	Raptor 150's in Raid0
Display(s)	LG Flatron 24"
Case	Custom
Audio Device(s)	AuzenTech X-Raider W/OP637
Power Supply	Custom modded Corsair 750HX
Software	Win 7 64/Solaris Utility
Benchmark Scores	3DMark06--21963 so far

System Name	File Server
Processor	2600k
Motherboard	idk
Cooling	H110
Memory	20gb of something
Video Card(s)	onboard!
Storage	2x120 SSD, (5x8tb)+(3x4tb) = 35 TB Z1 pool
Display(s)	couple 4k 32s
Case	cooler master something i think
Audio Device(s)	does anyone bother with anything but onboard?
Power Supply	Whatever OCZ PC Powercooling became. 1200 modular setup
Mouse	MX Master 2x
Keyboard	G710
Software	FreeNAS

System Name	Hells Core.
Processor	Ryzen 9 5950x
Motherboard	Asus Crosshair hero viii (wifi) x570
Cooling	AlphaCool Aurora 420mm
Memory	Patriot Viper Gaming RGB Series DDR4 DRAM 4133MHz 32GB Kit
Video Card(s)	MSI Gaming X Trio 3070
Storage	Sabrent 1TB Rocket Nvme PCIe 4.0 M.2
Display(s)	Acer Predator XB271HU
Case	Thermaltake Core X71
Power Supply	Corsair RM850 80 plus gold
Software	Windows 10