kodex
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2007
- Messages
- 100 (0.02/day)
| Processor | AMD X2 4600+ @ 2.52 GHZ |
|---|---|
| Motherboard | ECS AMD690GM-M2 |
| Cooling | Stock |
| Memory | 2 x 1GB WINTEC AMPO |
| Video Card(s) | eVGA 8800GT 512MB Superclocked |
| Storage | Western Digital Caviar WD2500KS 250GB |
| Display(s) | LG L196WTQ 19" Widescreen |
| Case | Atrix CSCI-G8022C-C43 |
| Audio Device(s) | Creative X-Fi XtremeGamer |
| Power Supply | Xclio Stablepower 460W |
| Software | Windows XP Pro SP2 32-bit / Windows Vista Buisness 32-bit |
Installing a custom case window (Rocketfish).
Hey guys,
I've loved my Rocketfish case (a rebranded LIAN-LI) since the day I bought it. The only thing I regretted about it was the lack of a side window. After seeing a tutorial on YouTube, I came up with a modified plan to add a window. This is more of a project log and less of a guide, but, if you've got the skills necessary, you should have no problem following these steps.
Warning: I used a table saw to cut the shape out of my case's side. The only reason I could do that was because the case is made out of aluminum. If your case is made out of steel, you will need to use a dremel, jigsaw, or some combination thereof to cut your window. Also, I'm not responsible if you destroy your case's side after following my steps. The risk is your own.
With that out of the way, let's run over the tools and items I used:
- Sheet of foam board
- Framing square or similar ruling device
- A 14 x 11 peice of Lexan (I got mine for $9 at Menard's)
- Scotch brand clear mounting tape #4010 (cost $3.50 for a 60" roll)
- Exacto knife
- Irwin Hand saw
- Square file
- Sharpie permanent marker (I should have used a white one, but purple worked)
- Clear tape
The first step was to cut the foam board to the size of the Lexan sheet; I simply traced it and cut it out. I then held it up to my case to see how it fit. It was too wide, so I kept cutting it till I liked the sizing.
I used the sharpie to make some notes on the back of my side panel. I wrote things like the hight, width and which side was which (I didn't want to start scribing wrong). The old adage applies here: measure twice, cut once. I marked two points, then scored a line between them with the Exacto knife. Obviously, you can always try again, but it's nice not to have lines all over. Once I had all the lines, I checked them with a framing square; some had to be re-scribed.
You can see that I made a mistake. I forgot to reduce the height of the window down from the size of the Lexan sheet. I took an 1 1/8" off each side (a little more than the tape is wide).
My Dad cut this for me, as it was my his idea to use a table saw in the first place. There's also the little bit about me never having used one before.
After making out first cut, we discovered a problem: the table saw can't cut to the corner (without leaving the above gouges, anyway).
To get good looking, square corners, we stopped short with the table saw. We finished the cuts with an Irwin hand saw. It was kinda slow going, as the thing got caught a lot, but there wasn't a lot to cut. After we got the scrap in the center out, he went over the edges and corners with a square file. Not a lot of pressure, just enough to knock the burs off.
I taped off the outward-facing side of the panel so we could paint the newly cut edges. He sprayed it and dabbed a little paint onto some small gouges in the corner. (Even though he stopped short with the table saw, the gouges were pretty long and just passed the outside of the corners). The paint took care of them and they're no longer noticeable.
The paint dried in about five minutes, so I was ready to put the Lexan on. I simply applied the mounting tape to the edges around the hole, pulled the backing off, and pushed the sheet into it.
The finished panel has a professional, clean look with no unsightly rivets. It also cost me a little under $15 to complete, so I think it was well worth it. I'll be adding some cathodes, LEDs and EL wire to the inside of the case to brighten things up a bit. I hope you guys enjoyed reading my guide. =)
Happy modding,
kodex
Hey guys,
I've loved my Rocketfish case (a rebranded LIAN-LI) since the day I bought it. The only thing I regretted about it was the lack of a side window. After seeing a tutorial on YouTube, I came up with a modified plan to add a window. This is more of a project log and less of a guide, but, if you've got the skills necessary, you should have no problem following these steps.
Warning: I used a table saw to cut the shape out of my case's side. The only reason I could do that was because the case is made out of aluminum. If your case is made out of steel, you will need to use a dremel, jigsaw, or some combination thereof to cut your window. Also, I'm not responsible if you destroy your case's side after following my steps. The risk is your own.
With that out of the way, let's run over the tools and items I used:
- Sheet of foam board
- Framing square or similar ruling device
- A 14 x 11 peice of Lexan (I got mine for $9 at Menard's)
- Scotch brand clear mounting tape #4010 (cost $3.50 for a 60" roll)
- Exacto knife
- Irwin Hand saw
- Square file
- Sharpie permanent marker (I should have used a white one, but purple worked)
- Clear tape
The first step was to cut the foam board to the size of the Lexan sheet; I simply traced it and cut it out. I then held it up to my case to see how it fit. It was too wide, so I kept cutting it till I liked the sizing.
I used the sharpie to make some notes on the back of my side panel. I wrote things like the hight, width and which side was which (I didn't want to start scribing wrong). The old adage applies here: measure twice, cut once. I marked two points, then scored a line between them with the Exacto knife. Obviously, you can always try again, but it's nice not to have lines all over. Once I had all the lines, I checked them with a framing square; some had to be re-scribed.
You can see that I made a mistake. I forgot to reduce the height of the window down from the size of the Lexan sheet. I took an 1 1/8" off each side (a little more than the tape is wide).
My Dad cut this for me, as it was my his idea to use a table saw in the first place. There's also the little bit about me never having used one before.
After making out first cut, we discovered a problem: the table saw can't cut to the corner (without leaving the above gouges, anyway).
To get good looking, square corners, we stopped short with the table saw. We finished the cuts with an Irwin hand saw. It was kinda slow going, as the thing got caught a lot, but there wasn't a lot to cut. After we got the scrap in the center out, he went over the edges and corners with a square file. Not a lot of pressure, just enough to knock the burs off.
I taped off the outward-facing side of the panel so we could paint the newly cut edges. He sprayed it and dabbed a little paint onto some small gouges in the corner. (Even though he stopped short with the table saw, the gouges were pretty long and just passed the outside of the corners). The paint took care of them and they're no longer noticeable.
The paint dried in about five minutes, so I was ready to put the Lexan on. I simply applied the mounting tape to the edges around the hole, pulled the backing off, and pushed the sheet into it.
The finished panel has a professional, clean look with no unsightly rivets. It also cost me a little under $15 to complete, so I think it was well worth it. I'll be adding some cathodes, LEDs and EL wire to the inside of the case to brighten things up a bit. I hope you guys enjoyed reading my guide. =)
Happy modding,
kodex
Last edited:
...you did a great job on the window. Nice and low profile. keeps out the ugly bay drives.