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My 1st time 0Cing...see anything wrong?

MainframeTM

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Greetings,

To start I have most of the progams needed..I think

CPU-Z
AMD OverDrive
Core Temp 0.97
Orthos
Prime95

Quick rundown of computer hardware I'm ocing

AMD 5000+ BE 2.6 brisbane cpu - currently OCed 2 3180ghz @ 15x-212fsb 1.45voltage - AMD OD max benchmark 8433

Corsair SMS2 2GB kit - DDR2 800 - PC2 6400 - timings set by hand @ 4-4-4-12 @ 2.1v

And b/c it matters voltage wise - Rosewill RD600N 600W 12V V2.2 PSU

Now to start with my issue with the cpu. From what I've read alot of people can simply set the mulitpler 2 16x & get a stable 3.2 ghz. Thats my goal. However when I do this ORTHOS throws out a rounding error. I can boot into windows and run whatever I need to..just ORTHOS/Prime95 has errors. What I"ve had to do is mentioned above..set the multipler @ 15 & then up the fsb & cpu voltage. I"m thinking I can simply set the 16x multi but would have to raise the voltage 2 perhaps 1.50v...that seems really high. Is this recommended? Also I just ran ORTHOS stable 4 5 mins 24 secs and it errored on a ILLEGAL SUMAMOUNT....?

Now with the memory I've read that I might be able to go lower on my timings..anyone in the know know about this? The reason I ask is that CPU-Z shows it @ 397.5mhz dram frequency @ the 4-4-4-12 timings & even when set the default. I wonder if I can go lower without risk to the memory.

Now to temps on the cpu/system as ORTHOS/Prime95 runs. Right now I'm idling @ 13C 4 Core 0 & 4C on Core 1. I'm thinking just by the difference I might need 2 reset my cpu fan and perhaps even out a new install of Arctic Silver 5? @ max temps during stress testing the system seemed to max between 45c 2 50c. Good on temps?

Overall this is the 1st real OC I've undertaken and just trying to play it safe. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thx,
Main
 
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I wouldn't worry too much about Orthos stable. Just reduce the FSB/HTT 2 notches and you are set. 1.5V is bit high unless you want to keep the cpu just for a short time. Instead of just increasing multi, if you can get 15x multi + higher HTT then memory will run faster and will yield more performance.
 

MainframeTM

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The HTT...hmmm I believe I've seen that in the bios and mentioned places I've read from. Also the bios is AMI for the ASUS M3A - forgot to mention that
 
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Everything looks quite nifty, the only thing I see somewhat wrong is the temperatures you're reporting...

Right now I'm idling @ 13C 4 Core 0 & 4C on Core 1. I'm thinking just by the difference I might need 2 reset my cpu fan and perhaps even out a new install of Arctic Silver 5? @ max temps during stress testing the system seemed to max between 45c 2 50c. Good on temps?

Did I get that well? Your idling cpu temps are 13C on one core and 4C on another core?

If you're using air or water cooling your idling core temperature can never be below ambient. And your rosewill is aircooling afaik so the temperature ought to be higher than ambient even more than it'd be with water-cooling.

I don't think your room temperature is below 4 degrees? What program are you using to measure temperatures? I suspect it isn't reporting them correctly at all, unless you're located on one of the poles... inside an igloo... :ohwell:
 

MainframeTM

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Everything looks quite nifty, the only thing I see somewhat wrong is the temperatures you're reporting...



Did I get that well? Your idling cpu temps are 13C on one core and 4C on another core?

If you're using air or water cooling your idling core temperature can never be below ambient. And your rosewill is aircooling afaik so the temperature ought to be higher than ambient even more than it'd be with water-cooling.

I don't think your room temperature is below 4 degrees? What program are you using to measure temperatures? I suspect it isn't reporting them correctly at all, unless you're located on one of the poles... inside an igloo... :ohwell:

I'm using Core Temp 0.97 and no not @ a pole. lol I chked temps with speedfan & PC Probe II - I've read that PC probe is incorrect..and seen several people mention coretemp as a correct temp gauge for this cpu..however when i turned on pcprobe it showed temps around 60c..so I quickly backed off a cpu torture test I had been running with prime95 - it had ran the whole time I was in the shower. Right now PC probe shows temp @ 44C idle. High - also with speedfan I see the same temp there....plus another area showing the same that coretemp 0.97 is showing. I wonder if I backdown my voltage & see how temps look then.
 
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Right now PC probe shows temp @ 44C idle. High - also with speedfan I see the same temp there....plus another area showing the same that coretemp 0.97 is showing.

So coretemp is giving you much lower temps than speedfan and pc probe?

What is your ambient (room) temperature?

My cores idle at ~ 11 degrees more than room temperature. In an un-airconditioned room in summer with room temperature at 36 degrees my idle used to go up to 47 degrees (so I moved to an air-conditioned room and now my idle doesn't get above 35 degrees). It's normal that idle core temperature is between 6 degrees and 15 degrees more than room temperature.

My cpu is oc'd to 3.0Ghz from 1.8, and during a stress test (orthos/TAT) the maximum it goes up is ~60-62 degrees.

I am not sure about the maximum temperatures of AMD but I presume they're similar to intel's?

I pointed out the temps at first because I was very unsure about them as well when I started overclocking this cpu. All programs reported temperatures too low to be realistic - everest, asus probe, speedfan would tell me the core temperatures were like 20 degrees idle when my room temperature was 25 so that would be impossible to have my cpu running cooler than the air temperature! The only program which functioned well was coretemp 0.95, it reported idle temps 35 degrees. The reason was that my E4300 happens to have a tjunc of 100 degrees rather than 85 degrees as is the case with the majority of the other C2D procs, and as a result the majority of temperature programs were reporting a temp 15 degrees cooler than my actual core temp (15 degs being the difference between 100 tjunc and 85 tjunc).
 

MainframeTM

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For me I think that the temps showing on coretemp has got to be incorrect. Right now I removed the OC and am back to the orginal OC..which is x15 200fsb 4 a stable 3.0 @ stock volts. Coretemp is reading 6C/-1C which is 42.8F & ASUS Probe is showing 38C which is 100.4F...Coretemp too low..and ASUS Probe too high..hmmmmmm now what...?
 
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let me give some input, current running mine at these settings

cpu: 3456Mhz
fsb: 288Mhz
ht : 1440Mhz
cpu voltage 1.475
mem: 288x4 so 1156 or so at 5,5,5,12 but i got pc9200 so it's almost stock speed for the mem
and the rest of the voltages on auto.

i would say shoot of 3.2 at probably 1.45v tops. most 5000 blacks go to 3.0 on stock voltage and don't require a huge v increase until after 3.25-3.3Ghz then you're looking at high voltages, and 1.5 is not going to kill your cpu even with crap air cooling. the 5000 black is rated straight from amd to be safe at 65c or below and try to stay way below and up to 1.65 although you should've go any higher then 1.55 tops without going to water.

My temps are current idling at 30 and load at 40c in a warm room. these chips run cool.
 

MainframeTM

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let me give some input, current running mine at these settings

cpu: 3456Mhz
fsb: 288Mhz
ht : 1440Mhz
cpu voltage 1.475
mem: 288x4 so 1156 or so at 5,5,5,12 but i got pc9200 so it's almost stock speed for the mem
and the rest of the voltages on auto.

i would say shoot of 3.2 at probably 1.45v tops. most 5000 blacks go to 3.0 on stock voltage and don't require a huge v increase until after 3.25-3.3Ghz then you're looking at high voltages, and 1.5 is not going to kill your cpu even with crap air cooling. the 5000 black is rated straight from amd to be safe at 65c or below and try to stay way below and up to 1.65 although you should've go any higher then 1.55 tops without going to water.

My temps are current idling at 30 and load at 40c in a warm room. these chips run cool.

Thats what I thought..but now two different programs are giving me different temps...I'm @ a loss on which one to trust...
 

MainframeTM

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Just wanted to post some finding..and maybe someone might give some advice..perhaps. Anyway while running Orthos/Prime95 I noted in everest and my cpu1/cpu2 temps were alot lower then my cpu temp. Speedfan/PC Probe showed the same thing. If I didn't know better I'd say Coretemp is reading per core..and the other programs is reading the core overall. Is this possible? That the cores are showing lower temp but the cpu overall is much higher?

Thank You,
 

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If you were to go through this list, could you give us your current settings?

It will help us to refine your settings more easily ;)!

Code:
ASUS M3A32-MVP Deluxe AM2/AM2+
AMD AthlonX2 5000+ BE AM2 2600 Brisbane (200x13) 1.25v +/- 0.10v
Corsair SMS2 PC-6400 DDR2-800 (400x2) 4-4-4-12 2.1v +/- 0.1v


ADVANCED -> JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION

AI Overclocking -- Manual
FSB Frequency -- 200
PCIE Frequency -- 100
Processor Prequency Multiplier -- x13
Processor Voltage -- 1.3500v
Processor NV Voltage -- 1.5000v
CPU VDDA Voltage -- 2.7v
CPU-NB HT Link Speed -- 1000 MHz
DDR Voltage -- 2.10v
Northbridge Voltage -- Auto
  HyperTransport Voltage -- 1.30v
  Core/PCIe Voltage -- 1.20v
  NB PCIE PLL -- 2.0v
Southbridge Voltage -- 1.20v
Auto Xpress -- Auto
CPU Tweak -- Enabled
  *** Memory Configuration ***
  *** DRAM Timings ***
PLL1 Spread Spectrum -- Disabled
PLL2 Spread Spectrum -- Disabled
AI Clock Skew for Channel A -- Auto
AI Clock Skew for Channel B -- Auto


ADVANCED -> JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION -> MEMORY CONFIGURATION

Bank Interleaving -- Auto
Channel Interleaving -- Auto
MemClk Tristate C3/ATLVID -- Disabled
Memory Hole Remapping -- Enabled (Req'd for 3+ GB of RAM)
Unganged Mode support -- Disabled
Power Down Enable -- Disabled
Read Delay -- Auto
DCQ Bypass Maximum -- Auto


ADVANCED -> JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION -> DRAM Timings

Memory Clock Mode -- Manual
  Memclock Value -- 800 MHz
2T Mode -- Enabled
DRAM Timing Mode -- DCT 0
  CAS -- 4
  TRCD -- 4
  TRP -- 4
  TRAS -- 12
  tWR -- Auto
  tRFC0 -- Auto
  tRFC1 -- Auto
  tRFC2 -- Auto
  tRFC3 -- Auto
  TRC -- Auto
  TRRD -- Auto
  tWTR -- Auto
  tRTP -- Auto
  tRWTTO -- Auto
 

MainframeTM

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If you were to go through this list, could you give us your current settings?

It will help us to refine your settings more easily ;)!

Code:
ASUS M3A32-MVP Deluxe AM2/AM2+
AMD AthlonX2 5000+ BE AM2 2600 Brisbane (200x13) 1.25v +/- 0.10v
Corsair SMS2 PC-6400 DDR2-800 (400x2) 4-4-4-12 2.1v +/- 0.1v


ADVANCED -> JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION

AI Overclocking -- Manual
FSB Frequency -- 200
PCIE Frequency -- 100
Processor Prequency Multiplier -- x13
Processor Voltage -- 1.3500v
Processor NV Voltage -- 1.5000v
CPU VDDA Voltage -- 2.7v
CPU-NB HT Link Speed -- 1000 MHz
DDR Voltage -- 2.10v
Northbridge Voltage -- Auto
  HyperTransport Voltage -- 1.30v
  Core/PCIe Voltage -- 1.20v
  NB PCIE PLL -- 2.0v
Southbridge Voltage -- 1.20v
Auto Xpress -- Auto
CPU Tweak -- Enabled
  *** Memory Configuration ***
  *** DRAM Timings ***
PLL1 Spread Spectrum -- Disabled
PLL2 Spread Spectrum -- Disabled
AI Clock Skew for Channel A -- Auto
AI Clock Skew for Channel B -- Auto


ADVANCED -> JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION -> MEMORY CONFIGURATION

Bank Interleaving -- Auto
Channel Interleaving -- Auto
MemClk Tristate C3/ATLVID -- Disabled
Memory Hole Remapping -- Enabled (Req'd for 3+ GB of RAM)
Unganged Mode support -- Disabled
Power Down Enable -- Disabled
Read Delay -- Auto
DCQ Bypass Maximum -- Auto


ADVANCED -> JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION -> DRAM Timings

Memory Clock Mode -- Manual
  Memclock Value -- 800 MHz
2T Mode -- Enabled
DRAM Timing Mode -- DCT 0
  CAS -- 4
  TRCD -- 4
  TRP -- 4
  TRAS -- 12
  tWR -- Auto
  tRFC0 -- Auto
  tRFC1 -- Auto
  tRFC2 -- Auto
  tRFC3 -- Auto
  TRC -- Auto
  TRRD -- Auto
  tWTR -- Auto
  tRTP -- Auto
  tRWTTO -- Auto

I actually upgraded the bios eariler this morning 2 the newest one. All my settings on stock except I disabled the onboard audio...I have set the cpu multi 2 x15 & my fsb 2 213 - past that I've set the Ram timings @ 4-4-4-12 - i noticed on the new bios that i had to set the ram timings 2 4-5-4-12 - cpuz showing the timings @ 4-4-4-12 - weird - one thing I"m going to do when i get home is reset the cpu fan & cover the entire top of the cpu with artic silver..I thinking perhaps the little bb sized drop I used isn't good enough?
 

jbruneau

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Hi there, I was checking out a few reviews on your 5000 BE there, a lot of reviews top out around 3200MHz to 3400MHz with 1.45v or 1.50v. All on air cooling as well.

So, the question becomes, how fast can we get your board and ram running all the while keeping the processor moving in the 3300MHz mark ;) :D!

Let's try something here...

Code:
ASUS M3A32-MVP Deluxe AM2/AM2+
AMD AthlonX2 5000+ BE AM2 2600 Brisbane (200x13) 1.25v +/- 0.10v
Corsair SMS2 PC-6400 DDR2-800 (400x2) 4-4-4-12 2.1v +/- 0.1v


ADVANCED -> JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION

AI Overclocking -- Manual
FSB Frequency -- 200 (250)
PCIE Frequency -- 100
Processor Prequency Multiplier -- x13 (try x13 for 3250, or x14 for 3500)
Processor Voltage -- 1.3500v (1.500v - starting high, drop it down to 1.450v if you can)
Processor NB Voltage -- 1.5000v (1.6000v)
CPU VDDA Voltage -- 2.7v
CPU-NB HT Link Speed -- 1000 MHz (1000MHz, 800MHz if problems occur) 
DDR Voltage -- 2.10v
Northbridge Voltage -- Manual
  HyperTransport Voltage -- 1.30v (1.40v)
  Core/PCIe Voltage -- 1.20v (1.28v)
  NB PCIE PLL -- 2.0v
Southbridge Voltage -- 1.20v (1.28v)
Auto Xpress -- Auto
CPU Tweak -- Enabled
  *** Memory Configuration ***
  *** DRAM Timings ***
PLL1 Spread Spectrum -- Disabled
PLL2 Spread Spectrum -- Disabled
AI Clock Skew for Channel A -- Auto
AI Clock Skew for Channel B -- Auto


ADVANCED -> JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION -> MEMORY CONFIGURATION

Bank Interleaving -- Auto
Channel Interleaving -- Auto
MemClk Tristate C3/ATLVID -- Disabled
Memory Hole Remapping -- Disabled (Enabled if over 3GB of RAM)
Unganged Mode support -- Disabled
Power Down Enable -- Disabled
Read Delay -- Auto
DCQ Bypass Maximum -- Auto


ADVANCED -> JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION -> DRAM Timings

Memory Clock Mode -- Manual
  Memclock Value -- 800 MHz
2T Mode -- Enabled
DRAM Timing Mode -- DCT 0
  CAS -- 4
  TRCD -- 4
  TRP -- 4
  TRAS -- 12
  tWR -- Auto
  tRFC0 -- Auto
  tRFC1 -- Auto
  tRFC2 -- Auto
  tRFC3 -- Auto
  TRC -- Auto
  TRRD -- Auto
  tWTR -- Auto
  tRTP -- Auto
  tRWTTO -- Auto

Your HyperTransport (or HTT for short) may run at 1000MHz, which would be 250*5 for 1250MHz, or you may have to drop it to 800MHz, which would be 250*4 for 1000MHz. It is hard to say, depends on board MFG, and whether there is a volt bump. We did kick the volts up 0.1v on both the CPU end and NB end. You should be able to push ~1300MHz on the HTT before having problems.
 

MainframeTM

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Power Supply Mach 1 1000watt
Software Win7 Home Premium
Hi there, I was checking out a few reviews on your 5000 BE there, a lot of reviews top out around 3200MHz to 3400MHz with 1.45v or 1.50v. All on air cooling as well.

So, the question becomes, how fast can we get your board and ram running all the while keeping the processor moving in the 3300MHz mark ;) :D!

Let's try something here...

Code:
ASUS M3A32-MVP Deluxe AM2/AM2+
AMD AthlonX2 5000+ BE AM2 2600 Brisbane (200x13) 1.25v +/- 0.10v
Corsair SMS2 PC-6400 DDR2-800 (400x2) 4-4-4-12 2.1v +/- 0.1v


ADVANCED -> JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION

AI Overclocking -- Manual
FSB Frequency -- 200 (250)
PCIE Frequency -- 100
Processor Prequency Multiplier -- x13 (try x13 for 3250, or x14 for 3500)
Processor Voltage -- 1.3500v (1.500v - starting high, drop it down to 1.450v if you can)
Processor NB Voltage -- 1.5000v (1.6000v)
CPU VDDA Voltage -- 2.7v
CPU-NB HT Link Speed -- 1000 MHz (1000MHz, 800MHz if problems occur) 
DDR Voltage -- 2.10v
Northbridge Voltage -- Manual
  HyperTransport Voltage -- 1.30v (1.40v)
  Core/PCIe Voltage -- 1.20v (1.28v)
  NB PCIE PLL -- 2.0v
Southbridge Voltage -- 1.20v (1.28v)
Auto Xpress -- Auto
CPU Tweak -- Enabled
  *** Memory Configuration ***
  *** DRAM Timings ***
PLL1 Spread Spectrum -- Disabled
PLL2 Spread Spectrum -- Disabled
AI Clock Skew for Channel A -- Auto
AI Clock Skew for Channel B -- Auto


ADVANCED -> JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION -> MEMORY CONFIGURATION

Bank Interleaving -- Auto
Channel Interleaving -- Auto
MemClk Tristate C3/ATLVID -- Disabled
Memory Hole Remapping -- Disabled (Enabled if over 3GB of RAM)
Unganged Mode support -- Disabled
Power Down Enable -- Disabled
Read Delay -- Auto
DCQ Bypass Maximum -- Auto


ADVANCED -> JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION -> DRAM Timings

Memory Clock Mode -- Manual
  Memclock Value -- 800 MHz
2T Mode -- Enabled
DRAM Timing Mode -- DCT 0
  CAS -- 4
  TRCD -- 4
  TRP -- 4
  TRAS -- 12
  tWR -- Auto
  tRFC0 -- Auto
  tRFC1 -- Auto
  tRFC2 -- Auto
  tRFC3 -- Auto
  TRC -- Auto
  TRRD -- Auto
  tWTR -- Auto
  tRTP -- Auto
  tRWTTO -- Auto

Your HyperTransport (or HTT for short) may run at 1000MHz, which would be 250*5 for 1250MHz, or you may have to drop it to 800MHz, which would be 250*4 for 1000MHz. It is hard to say, depends on board MFG, and whether there is a volt bump. We did kick the volts up 0.1v on both the CPU end and NB end. You should be able to push ~1300MHz on the HTT before having problems.

Thx I'll try these settings 2day after work. last night I reset my cpu fan. It did lower my temps. Prime 95 seemed to top out temp wise @ around 55C to 58C...Orthos on the other hand pumps my cpu up past 63C..all in the red. And I was able to figure out that PC ProbeII & Speed Fan are both correct on temps..plus with Everest..CoreTemp is wrong beyond all belief. Also running FEAR @ max settings with my OC 2 3.2ghz runs temps over 60C

My current config runs like this bios wise...

FSB 212
Multi x15
Processor voltage @ 1.4
Ram timings are 4-5-4-12

Those are the only settings I play with in the bios. I did read that AMDs don't have fsb so I might be changing the wrong figure. I know the HTT transport area of my bios I've not touched & by looking @ those settings it seems I should be.

Thx 4 the reply!
 
B

bassmasta

Guest
remember to grab speefan. it's usually wrong in terms of temps, but it creates a graph, which means you can keep track of the temp change, assuming you dont sit at your pc for the day while stress testing.
 

MainframeTM

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remember to grab speefan. it's usually wrong in terms of temps, but it creates a graph, which means you can keep track of the temp change, assuming you dont sit at your pc for the day while stress testing.

I have speedfan..haven't seen the graph yet. One thing I noticed is that now that I"ve reset my cpu fan I'm getting temp spikes when ORTHOS runs. I seem to idle @ around high 30's with temp increases to high to high 50's. I did improve temps some by redoing the fan. Also I noticed my front fan was alittle clogged with pet fur. So I think I'm gonna move the computer up ontop of the desk and try these new settings. As long as I can keep the voltage down I seem to be ok temp wise. At a multi of 15x temps are fine but thats stock voltage.

Thx,
Main
 

MainframeTM

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Just wanted to report that the bios settings just caught the computer up in a power on/power off loop. Stating that the OC failed....I"m downgrading the bios trying to see if that may help...again
 

jbruneau

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Video Card(s) BFG GeForce 8600GTS OC 256MB (775 Core / 1135 Mem / 1637 Shader)
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Benchmark Scores 3DMark06: 6264, PCMark06: 5680
Make sure you are pushing the x13 multiplier on the CPU, and the 800MHz (or x4 multiplier) on the HT Link Speed.

x13 will retain a slightly faster CPU clock speed than you had before, and 800 (or x4) will keep the HT Link Speed at the factory 1000MHz.

It could be that the board doesn't have enough voltage on the HT, or the board simply doesn't support speeds of 1250MHz on the HT (though it was designed for 1000MHz as stated earlier ;)).

So:
Processor Frequency Multiplier -- x13
Processor Voltage -- 1.500v
Processor NB Voltage -- 1.6000v
CPU VDDA Voltage -- 2.7v
CPU-NB HT Link Speed -- 800MHz
DDR Voltage -- 2.10v
Northbridge Voltage -- Manual
HyperTransport Voltage -- 1.40v
Core/PCIe Voltage -- 1.28v
NB PCIE PLL -- 2.0v
Southbridge Voltage -- 1.28v

If that is stable, kick the HT Link Speed up to 1000MHz.
If still stable, knock the CPU Voltage down to 1.4500V.
 

MainframeTM

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Make sure you are pushing the x13 multiplier on the CPU, and the 800MHz (or x4 multiplier) on the HT Link Speed.

x13 will retain a slightly faster CPU clock speed than you had before, and 800 (or x4) will keep the HT Link Speed at the factory 1000MHz.

It could be that the board doesn't have enough voltage on the HT, or the board simply doesn't support speeds of 1250MHz on the HT (though it was designed for 1000MHz as stated earlier ;)).

So:
Processor Frequency Multiplier -- x13
Processor Voltage -- 1.500v
Processor NB Voltage -- 1.6000v
CPU VDDA Voltage -- 2.7v
CPU-NB HT Link Speed -- 800MHz
DDR Voltage -- 2.10v
Northbridge Voltage -- Manual
HyperTransport Voltage -- 1.40v
Core/PCIe Voltage -- 1.28v
NB PCIE PLL -- 2.0v
Southbridge Voltage -- 1.28v

If that is stable, kick the HT Link Speed up to 1000MHz.
If still stable, knock the CPU Voltage down to 1.4500V.

@ this point I know without a doubt I'm going to have to get a new cpu fan..the one I have is
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16835200014 Reviews are so so..I ended up @ the last going changing from http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16835106069. I've spend most of 2day @ work reading up on cpu fans again and think I"m gonna go with this http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16835118004 and going to change my case out with http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16811129025 for the airflow.

What I"ve noticed is the moment I raise my voltages to the cpu my temps begin to spike. Being new to Ocing it's taken me this long to figure out..least I think that the Cpu fan just isn't up to the job. I"ve tried everything else.
 

jbruneau

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Memory Corsair TWINX2048-4000PT (DDR500 --> DDR550 OCd)
Video Card(s) BFG GeForce 8600GTS OC 256MB (775 Core / 1135 Mem / 1637 Shader)
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Benchmark Scores 3DMark06: 6264, PCMark06: 5680
@ this point I know without a doubt I'm going to have to get a new cpu fan..the one I have is
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16835200014 Reviews are so so..I ended up @ the last going changing from http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16835106069. I've spend most of 2day @ work reading up on cpu fans again and think I"m gonna go with this http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16835118004 and going to change my case out with http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16811129025 for the airflow.

What I"ve noticed is the moment I raise my voltages to the cpu my temps begin to spike. Being new to Ocing it's taken me this long to figure out..least I think that the Cpu fan just isn't up to the job. I"ve tried everything else.

Yes, definitely, bumping the voltage even 0.1V or 0.2V will increase temperatures a fair bit -- especially if the ambient temp is already high!

The ThermalTake is a good cooler, and they are a good company. TT has been around for many many years, and make a variety of products (I love their hardcano series ;))! The Zalman is also a very good cooler, probably outperforms the TT, and I think Zalman does a better job at cooling CPUs/GPUs!

A few other coolers to think about:
Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 @ http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185125
ThermalRight Ultra-120 @ http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835109125

These are the 2 leading coolers in their class, on most review sites. The AC Freezer 64 comes incredibly highly recommended on these forums. As soon as new coolers are mentioned, it is always the first to go up on the list ;) :laugh:!

Both AC and ThermalRight have been around for ages, and have both really really proven themselves. The price premium on the ThermalRight is worth every penny, if your budget allows for it :toast:!
 

MainframeTM

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Case AZZA Solano 1000
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Yes, definitely, bumping the voltage even 0.1V or 0.2V will increase temperatures a fair bit -- especially if the ambient temp is already high!

The ThermalTake is a good cooler, and they are a good company. TT has been around for many many years, and make a variety of products (I love their hardcano series ;))! The Zalman is also a very good cooler, probably outperforms the TT, and I think Zalman does a better job at cooling CPUs/GPUs!

A few other coolers to think about:
Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 @ http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185125
ThermalRight Ultra-120 @ http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835109125

These are the 2 leading coolers in their class, on most review sites. The AC Freezer 64 comes incredibly highly recommended on these forums. As soon as new coolers are mentioned, it is always the first to go up on the list ;) :laugh:!

Both AC and ThermalRight have been around for ages, and have both really really proven themselves. The price premium on the ThermalRight is worth every penny, if your budget allows for it :toast:!

I think the AC Freezer 64 is the way to go. Thx for the links!
 

jbruneau

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Memory Corsair TWINX2048-4000PT (DDR500 --> DDR550 OCd)
Video Card(s) BFG GeForce 8600GTS OC 256MB (775 Core / 1135 Mem / 1637 Shader)
Storage WD Caviar SE16 250GB SATA-II, 2xWD Caviar SE16 320GB SATA-II RAID0
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Audio Device(s) Creative SoundBlaster Audigy 4 Gamer
Power Supply OCZ ModStream 520W
Software Windows XP Professional w/ SP3
Benchmark Scores 3DMark06: 6264, PCMark06: 5680
I think the AC Freezer 64 is the way to go. Thx for the links!

N/P! Enjoy the cooler, and lets keep our fingers crossed on a faster OC :D!
 

MainframeTM

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N/P! Enjoy the cooler, and lets keep our fingers crossed on a faster OC :D!
Question..do u or anyone even think I need 2 update the case for lower temps as well? I'm not sure if I want the new case b/c it looks cool..or just for possible lower temps with the new cpu fan. Which should cool just as well in the old case as the new right?
 

jbruneau

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Processor AMD Opteron 170 (2000MHz --> 2750MHz OCd)
Motherboard ASUS A8N32-SLi Deluxe
Cooling ThermalRight Ultra 120
Memory Corsair TWINX2048-4000PT (DDR500 --> DDR550 OCd)
Video Card(s) BFG GeForce 8600GTS OC 256MB (775 Core / 1135 Mem / 1637 Shader)
Storage WD Caviar SE16 250GB SATA-II, 2xWD Caviar SE16 320GB SATA-II RAID0
Display(s) Samsung SyncMaster 2232GW 22" WideScreen
Case Antec PerformanceOne P160W
Audio Device(s) Creative SoundBlaster Audigy 4 Gamer
Power Supply OCZ ModStream 520W
Software Windows XP Professional w/ SP3
Benchmark Scores 3DMark06: 6264, PCMark06: 5680
Question..do u or anyone even think I need 2 update the case for lower temps as well? I'm not sure if I want the new case b/c it looks cool..or just for possible lower temps with the new cpu fan. Which should cool just as well in the old case as the new right?

Well, that depends on what case you are running right now.

I have a system based off of the P160W and had one off the P182SE (beautiful case, btw, heavy though)!

The P182SE has amazing airflow. The PSU is retained in a lower compartment with the primary HDDs, a fan in the middle keeps air flowing in the lower compartment. There are 2 fans in the upper compartment, I would recommend adding a third in the front, which would be installed infront of the other HDD bay, just to even out the air pressure in the case a little (plus the rear vents are slotted to allow air flow through the PCIex and PCI cards installed).

Excellent air flow in the enclosure, it is incredibly amazingly well designed, as all of Antec's equipment is! The only drawback is you may have to purchase extensions for the 24pin ATX and 8pin EPS.

The 182 is also 1" wider, and 1" taller than its 160 counterpart. As I said, about 3x heavier as well. It is just, huge. Allows for tons of optical/hdds, and tons of airflow. I had 6 drives in mine, 2 ide primary, and 4 raid sata secondary.

I had a Q6600 clocked at 3.5Ghz on a ThermalRight Ultra-120 Extreme, Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400C4's clocked at 900 4-4-4-12, and never peaked over 40 degrees C!

Anyways, enough ranting, beautiful case and incredibly well designed. Highly recommended! I have pics of that system build. Ran it for 3-6 months clocked like that, no problems, ever. Had to sell it though, mortgage, food, etc....
 

MainframeTM

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I have an older antec case..my main concern with it is while building this machine I took the case apart from a previous build...drilled out the rivits & replaced those with screws but the case never has seemed a solid as it used to. it could be my own perception of it now..don't know. I'm thinking that perhaps by my previous removing of the rivits that it could have disturbed the "flow" thru the case. I also installed a blowhole @ the top of the case & when I place my hand over the fan it blows nice..but the ones on the back are low it seems and don't seem to chop alot of air out back.
 
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